I'm currently rebuild my '54 and just did all the suspension. My shackles were in a similar state as Hookalatch's, although on mine the pins were so starved for grease that they were worn down to below the threads and barely a"pin" anymore, proly down to 3/8'' at the smallest area.
If yours are too far gone, no possibility of rebuilding, then a new shackle kit is the way to go, not too expensive, got mine from classic and seem to be good quality (place of origin is most likely not USA but not much is now days)
Swapping in new bushings and all is not to bad I'll write how I did mine, if you don't care how I did mine, stop reading here . haha
Because I am totally rebuilding the truck, all I had to work with was the frame and new leaf springs, so accessing the shackles on a completed truck might be a little tougher. But here's what I would do:
1. Block front wheels, jack up rear of truck via the rear diff.
2. You don't want to place the axle on the jackstands because you need to get the trucks weight off of the suspension.
One idea: Place a jackstand just inside the leafspring on each side of the truck, on top of the jackstands run a 4x4 or larger wooden post (metal would be better if you got it) parallel to the axle, all the way across width of the frame. (the wooden or metal cross support will not be under too much load if the jackstands are kept close to the frame rails) The frame rails are pretty straight for 6-8 inches forward of the rear shackles, this would be ideal location.
3. Lower the axle to "let out" the suspension, may need to remove tires to gain enough room to lower it all the way without having the truck raised 3 foot off the ground.
4. Leave the jack under the pumpkin, might need to "load" the suspension slightly to release the pressure on the shackle, and support the axle when the shackle is disconnected
5. Remove all the grease zerts on the shackle(s) to be replaced
6. Remove center "carriage" bolt from shackle (supposed to keep shackle from spreading as yours did)
7. Remove the shackle side plates, hammer and some type of "drift" works good. an overnight soak in your favorite penetrating oil helps this process. CAUTION: Make sure the jack is supporting the axle before the side plates are removed
8. Now the pin can be "unscrewed" from its bushing. if replacing the bushing AND the pin, do not remove the pin
9. Use a ball joint removal tool (can be rented for free at o reilly's part #3421 I think) to push the bushing out of the leaf spring and/or the frame. If replacing the bushing and pin use the pin to push on, when the pin is no longer accessible or if only pushing on the bushing use a socket that is just smaller than the I.D. of the hole in the spring/frame so the bushing and socket can be push all the way thru the spring/frame without distorting the hole. A rag, towel, or sock can be used between tool and frame to save your paint. An overnight soak in your favorite penetrating oil helps this process also
10. Install new bushings using ball joint tool (recommend installing the new pins in the bushing and pushing on the pin to install the bushing)
11. Install new pins
12. Install side plates
13. Install center "carriage" bolt
14. Install grease zerts
15. Jack axle up until the cross support can be removed, remove it as well as the jackstands
16. Ease her back down to the ground
17. DONT FORGET TO HIT THE NEW BUSHINGS AND PINS WITH THE GREASE GUN
Removal of rear bumper might help during all of this too.
-LGringo
Last edited by locogringo; 06/08/2011 11:14 PM.
