The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Solenoid or ignition?

Guys, Over time my truck would not always start when I turned the key. I thought my solenoid was bad when I could only start my truck using a screwdriver on the solenoid to start it. Rebuilt the solenoid, and I still have the same problem. I have a key ignition and I am wondering if it could be my ignition switch that is bad?

Have someone hold the ignition switch in the "start" position while you check the voltage applied to the "S" terminal of the solenoid. I'll bet you find it's way below battery violtage. The "start" position contacts in the ignition switch have to carry a heavy current as the pull-in winding of the solenoid operates, sometimes in excess of 50 amps, and it's not uncommon for those contacts to burn. Once the solenoid pulls itself in, the current drops to less than 10 amps as the pull-in winding is disabled and the "hold-in" coil takes over.

It takes a lot of magnetism to overcome the tension of the starter drive return spring and get the drive pinion gear pulled into position, so the pull-in winding draws a heavy current. It's also possible that you've got worn or dirty brushes in the starter, as the pull-in winding grounds itself through the brushes. Try tapping the starter housing with a hammer while the ignition switch is in the start position, and see if the solenoid kicks in. It's very seldom that I will change or repair only a solenoid, without rebuilding the rest of the starter.
Jerry

Jerry, thanks for the insight. I'll try first checking the voltage to see if it is my ignition switch. I did tap the starter yesterday, so I am hoping it is the ignition switch. Either way, I'll pull the starter and have it rebuilt.

Jerry, checked the voltage. Read 12.9 volts.

Started the truck, but sounded like the starter wasn't disengaged. Turned it off, and now nothing happens. I took the starter and solenoid off and I am taking it to a auto electrical shop in the morning.

Solenoid checked out fine, but starter drive was slipping, so had it replaced. Installed starter/solenoid, and once the ignition key is turned to the "on" position I hear the solenoid click, but won't start. Even with a screwdriver across the solenoid contacts. I am now going to order a new ignition switch and install it. Does anyone think I am on the right track here?

Okay, new ignition switch, wired properly. Rebuilt solenoid and new drive in starter. Replaced the drive after having my starter and solenoid checked out at a qualified shop. I can start the engine, but it still hesitates some before turning the engine over. Also noticed that my lifters seem to be making a lot of noise. Could this just be from sitting for over a week. Oil is right at the full mark on the dip stick. Any ideas?

have you tried installing a relay near to the starter? the ignition switch will only be required to operate the relay coil. then through the relay contacts switch the battery supply ( large cable) to the coil of the solenoid. have used often on small/ big block chevs. mount the relay on the front mounting brace . not sure what sort of truck/engine you have nothing mentioned

My truck is a 54 3100 with a 235 c.i. Also has the hydramatic tranny. Has been converted to a 12 volt system. What type of relay are you speaking of? Not familiar with this stuff. Which front mounting brace are you speaking of? Could my problem be the adjustment between the pinion gear and the starter housing?

A standard 5 pin relay will do the trick. Connections are as follows
Terminal 86 12volts from ignition switch originally connected to your solenoid
Terminal 85 ground
Terminal 30 12 volts from battery , from battery stud/connection to this terminal
Terminal 87 12 volts to solenoid
Relay should have a built in mounting bracket. Mount somewhere close to the starter to reduce the amount of wiring involved and for a neater install. front brace is found on V8 applications supporting the front of the starter motor. There could be other reasons for your problems however install relay it will only cost a few dollars cheap and easy install which will deliver a good battery voltage to your solenoid bypassing the ignition system.

New information. Had to take my truck to a mechanic that I have used in the past. Couldn't deal with not being able to find the problem with my starter circuit. He called and said my starter was bad, and I needed a replacement. I had already taken the starter and solenoid to a place that rebuilds them here in Chattanooga. They put a new drive in it and said it was good to go. I tend to believe that the starter is bad as I had replaced and checked almost everything that could have caused the problem. My question(s) are: Can my old starter be rebuilt? It is a unique starter since it is used with my 54 chev hydramatic transmission. The nose on it is approximately one inch longer. Anyone know where to find a replacement?

Call Stan's Starter and Alternator Rebuilders in Pulaski, TN., 931-363-6373. Stan is a 2nd.-generation owner of that shop, and he's in his mid-50's or older. He's got a massive stock of cores and lots of new old stock parts that date back to the 1940's or earlier. I've been doing business with him for at least 30 years, with excellent results and fair prices. Another electrical rebuilder I use regularly is Todd's Auto Parts in Nashville. They go back to the T-model days, and if Stan doesn't have something for some reason, Todd's is my second choice.
Jerry

Hy Ted W, as long as your armature is in good shape then the starter can be rebuilt.

Hotrod Lincoln, Thanks so much, I really appreciate this information. I will definitely be giving them a call.

My truck is back on the road again!! Mechanic took parts from my second starter and made my original work again. Sending the second off to have it rebuilt by a reputable shop.