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#75000 03/18/2007 11:31 PM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Yes, that is where it goes.
You have already done an important step in any re-furbishing project. You have taken pictures before disassembly. Smart move. | | |
#75001 03/19/2007 1:44 AM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 85 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 85 | I would also suggest purchasing a shop/assembly manual. They can oftentimes be invaluable. | | |
#75002 03/19/2007 2:01 AM | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 483 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 483 | Yep youv'e found the missing piece. | | |
#75003 03/19/2007 2:43 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,870 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,870 | Looking at the general condition of that wheel cylinder, I'd suggest replacing it. The "missing link" there doesn't come out easily, especially on a properly-functioniong brake. I'll bet you're going to find a frozen-up piston in the wheel cylinder corresponding to the dropped link.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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#75004 03/19/2007 3:09 AM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | The little flat bar goes horizontally, under the wheel cylinder to push out the front shoe when you pull on the emergency brake. You'll also need to scout up the little spring and washer-like clip that go over the end and holds it in place.
Belaire bolt is right on the money about a manual....especially for a bigger rig. There are going to be a number of significant differences between the the 1/2 tons and the heavier trucks.
Dave | | |
#75005 03/19/2007 3:53 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | There is no little flat bar in either picture. The picture is of a front brake which won't have parking brake components on it.
Most likely the rears on a 1-ton won't either. I imagine it has the drum behind the tranny. | | |
#75006 03/19/2007 5:05 PM | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 172 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 172 | Ok, after peeling back the seals on the cylinder..there is some NASTY stuff in there. Once side is full of a slimy brown lumpy substance and the other (with missing rod) is full of a white cheesy looking stuff.
Pretty sure that is not the way these are supposed to be.
Problem is that NAPA wants like $40 per front cylinder.
Question for the gurus....can a C20 cylinder be used on the C30? LMC has them about half NAPA's price.
(Yes, yes, I know I need a shop manual, but things keep coming up on the truck faster than I can find a manual and Chevy still hasn't sent me the kit thing I ordered.)
ps...yes cletis, I have the 'external contracting drum brake' on this truck. There needs to be a snappier name for that.
1965 Chevy C-30 1-Ton "Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like nobody's watching." | | |
#75007 03/19/2007 5:16 PM | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | from here C20 frt cyls: RAYBESTOS Part # WC19086 and 7 C30: RAYBESTOS Part # WC19086 and 7 looks the same - the difference would be in piston/bore diameter .... Bill | | |
#75008 03/19/2007 6:23 PM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Hey Cletis....know any good opticians? Guess it's time I went in again. Thanks for the correction!
Sablesurfer....sorry about the BAD info! Wasn't trying to complicate your fix.
Dave | | |
#75009 03/19/2007 6:31 PM | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 547 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 547 | If the cylinder is in good shape you can rebuild it. Napa has rebuild kits for $1 or $2 a cylinder. The kit is just the rubber components and the spring in the middle. I just finished rebuilding my front ones. I sandblasted the outside(ONLY THE OUTSIDE, NEVER THE INSIDE) Got a brake cylinder hone and honed the inside. Cleaned up the metal parts and painted the outside of the cylinder and they are looking brand spankin' new. I would look in to rebuilding them before buying new one, that will save you $30+ up front!
58' 3200 235 3-speed/OD
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#75010 03/19/2007 9:42 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The 3/4 & 1 ton are the same like Red says. The difference in the part numbers are left & right. Take your cyls. apart & see what you got. Seems like on the ones i,ve done lately these aluminum pistons are all corroded. They don,t come with a kit anymore.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#75011 03/20/2007 1:26 AM | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 | LOL! Hey! You got those drums off! Congrats!!!
Now comes the "easy" part.
One way to do brakes is to do one side at a time. That way you can go look at the other side if you forget how things go together. (providing the PO didn't screw up!!)Take the shoes off and take apart the wheel cylinder. You may be able to work on them on the truck or you may need to remove to put them on the bench. The pistons inside may be frozen. I had to beat mine out with a piece of pvc sprinkler pipe. A brake cylinder hone is cheap. You mount it on your electric drill and carefully hone out the wheel cylinder. Inspect for pitting. If the pitting is real bad and in the area where the rubber seal slides, you need to replace the wheel cylinder. Try to save money by rebuilding but if they are badly pitted, you must replace them. They are not expensive. Take your time. Clean up all the parts. Install new shoes and have your drums turned. Always put the longer shoe in the rear. Reassemble. Then take out your master cylinder and rebuild it in the same way you rebuilt the wheel cylinders. Hone it and install the rebuild kit. It's pretty simple. When you get ready to put the hubs back on let us know.
Have fun!! Send us pix!!! | | |
#75012 03/20/2007 12:10 PM | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 395 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 395 | pull the cyl,s apart and clean up if you have ability to restore and cyl,s are restoreable go,,, watch price on kits some time whole cyl,s are best buy,,don,t over look all lines and hoses as nothing will make your heart stop quicker than when you apply brake and pedal pushes to floor because a steel line has rusted and blowed out...doc | | |
#75013 03/20/2007 9:21 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | If your wheels cylinders are bad so are your lines and hoses, and probably the master cylinder. It's all connected.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#75014 03/21/2007 12:54 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,870 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,870 | If someone is willing to bet his life on a 50-year-old rebuilt wheel cylinder every time he steps on the brakes, I'd like to get him in a poker game. I'll bet he would draw to an inside straight, too!
IS YOUR LIFE WORTH A 40 BUCK WHEEL CYLINDER, OR FOUR?
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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#75015 03/21/2007 1:27 AM | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I'm with Jerry on this one. Look at any brake shop-nobody rebuilds wheel cylinders, master cylinders, or calipers these days-too much liability. Also, for the labor it takes to rebuild one, it's actually cheaper to install new. Now I can understand it on some of the really old trucks that the parts are either non-existant or priced like they're made of gold, but on the newer trucks that there's easy availabilty of the parts, I'd replace with new. Besides, $40 isn't really that bad for wheel cylinders.
Bill Burmeister
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#75016 03/21/2007 3:57 AM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 1,158 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 1,158 | I'm going to don my sheep outfit and agree with Jerry and Bill.
Go for the new cylinders... Especially if they're only $40 apiece. | | |
#75017 03/21/2007 5:32 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | I just replaced my rear Huck-style cylinders with new ones from Raybestos. They were $64 each (Canadian dollars) but to me worth it. I don't figure on changing them again in my lifetime. Raybestos web site has all the part numbers. | | |
#75018 03/21/2007 9:01 PM | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 29 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 29 | Don't skimp on brake parts your life and the old iron are always worth it,just my 2cents...
Those who fail to plan, plan to fail....
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