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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,137 Posts1,056,471 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 27 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 27 | I have been disassembling a deluxe heater for restoration and cannot remove the set screw holding the sqirrel cage onto the motor shaft. the tangs on the set screw are broken off and there is not enough room to get a drill in to drill out the set screw. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mike
51 Suburban
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 295 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 295 | Can you use a 6" drill and go thru the fan / between the blades? Would try to get this in cobalt which will have better time with case harden on set screw.
Dan Bentler | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | if you dont need to replace the motor why take it off. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | I have used a extra long drill bit and drilled them out,then re-tapped the threads.I can't remember what size of drill bit.
Tim 1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 27 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 27 | I was able to get the set screw out, low tech method.
Soaked in Kroil for 2 days then made a jig with plywood and cut a slot for screwdriver with a fine tooth hacksaw. came right out. Now I need to locate a new 6 volt motor, mine is dead.
Mike
51 Suburban
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 96 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 96 | Hey guys, Thanks for the info. I did the same thing to mine but was too embarrassed to ask for help. Now all is well. What about the correct paint for the heater casing? Be well, Richard
Richard J Patrick - 1946 Suburban
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | I am in the process of restoring a deluxe heater I purchased on Ebay. So far so good as I was able to remove the fan from the motor shaft and the heater core seems solid. Heck the motor even runs fine. I did open up the motor and replaced the brushes, cleaned it all out, lubed the bushings, cleaned the ammature (or is it commutator)? Anyway, my point is that instead of thinking a motor is dead, open it up and see if all it needs are new brushes and a good cleaning. Those motors are pretty robust and I doubt even running them at 12v would hurt them. I ran mine at 12v for testing purposes.
I plan on using Rustoleum dark bronze for the finish paint only because I am too lazy to get the "perfect" paint. Not trying to do a perfect restoration, just one that looks good. I am even contemplating painting the interior of the housing black...wont be seen and it seems a smoother (i.e. not hammered) paint would improve air flow (I know, not much, but hey). Now I need to go find new assembly screws with a blunt tip...will probably have to grind the tip of the many screws. Going to go SS if I can find them.
Last edited by DavidF; 05/25/2011 10:50 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | I got a motor at Napa that looks identical to the one you get at Chevs of the 40's, exact measurements and all, for under $30.00. Available in 6 or 12 volts.
Richard, try Hammerite Rust Cap Bronze, it's the closest match I've seen. Check out my photobucket pics.
David, I couldn't find screws that looked right, they were too long or the heads were too big, so I chucked them one at a time into my drill and worked each screw head against some 600 grit paper till they looked almost like chrome.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Twoton, ya'll got a NAPA number for those motors???? Most of the time when I go into a NAPA store around here, I get a kid or girl or someone that doesn't speak english. If it isn't a standard part on a 2006 Toyota they just stare back at you with a blank look on their face.
A screw that comes very close to the original should be in stock at McMaster Carr. DG
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | You bet! The part # is 655-1022. It is shorter than the one linked to in di1953gmc's post but I wanted one I could put inside the old motor housing. The mounting bolts are placed closer together than the original motor bolts. I removed the end caps from the new motor and drilled the holes out to match the original motor, I then assembled the new motor inside the old motor housing using the original bolts. It fit together so nice that as I tightened the nuts down to pull the old motor caseing together it clamped the new motor in place and snugged everything up tight. It works great. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | If that picture in Photobucket is of your new motor, it sure looks original. Thanks for the number, I've got several heaters here that I'm working on and think I'll stop buy NAPA this morning when I go out. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | I believe that picture shows his original motor case.
The new motor is smaller and fits inside an original gutted motor.
His paint job came out nice. I used that paint and got several pot marks.
Good job
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