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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,074 Posts1,055,999 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2011 Posts: 12 | Hello everyone. I'm currently working on a 55 gmc 100 and I can't seem to get the rear drums off to complete the rebuilding of my brake system. what is your technique? and btw, what a kool truck. so simple, I've owned it two days and already I've got it titled, registered (this morning) the front wheel cylinders rebuilt, the master cylinder removed, and parts ordered. not bad for buying it Saturday afternoon and now it's monday morning. Toby | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 433 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 433 | tob4000 I took a rubber mallet and hit all around on the drum to loosen it up... I had to heat up one side to brake it loose... The center of the drum was stuck... If your truck has been sitting expect to see rust and the black power from the shoes, avoid breathing the power... Also check to make sure your brake shoes are not adjusted too tight...
1954 Chevy 3104 3 Window Hydra-Matic in my family for over 60 Years
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right... "Scarlet Begonias" Grateful Dead 1974
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Get a bigger hammer and de-rust the hub where it comes thru the drum. Some times a little more patience is needed but it wll come. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Take a metal hammer and smack the drum where it is supported by the hub. Go around in a circle. When the bond starts to break you will see puffs of rust when you hit it. Next, pull on the drum while tapping the edge and maybe turning it a bit. | | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2011 Posts: 12 | Truckernix, I believe you are the winner here. only because you made me have a flashback to my first ever brake job on my first car. a 1980 AMC spirit. My grandfather gave me the same exact advice you did and it worked perfectly. I had forgotten all about it. Thanks everyone for the quick responses and I'll keep you updated on what happens. I've got to work tomorrow but I'm going to go after it Wednesday morning early. Toby | | | | | Joined: May 2011 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2011 Posts: 12 | Well everyone. tried truckernix's advice. Lightly tapped on the spaces between the wheel studs, added a little heat, and voila! five minutes later had the drum in my hand. Thanks everybody. I'm on to the rear brakes tomorrow and also the master cylinder rebuild kit will hopefully be in tomorrow. after that, it's ready to roll. Toby | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I say happy stopping!
Last edited by truckernix; 05/25/2011 11:01 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | After using a rear brake-drum gasket, this minor problem of "rust-welding" is mostly avoided. I had never seen this type of gasket until perusing a Chevs of the 40s catalog. | | |
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