The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How to get to brake pads on a 1ton with 8 lug wheels?

Hello,
Ok, I thought this would be easy....HA!

I want to bleed/flush my brakes and check the pads to see what kind of shape they are in.

But, it turns out that I have NO IDEA how get the drums off. These are eight lug wheels on front and dualies on the back.

On the front it looks like there is a huge cap in the middle of the drum that I have no idea how to take off.

The backs I haven't even looked at yet as they look scary.

Anyone know what I need to do to get to/remove the drums on these wheels?

Dave

Hy sablesurfer, A little more info please what year truck are we talking about? Have you got the front wheels off?

'65 C30 1Ton

Yes, I can get the front wheel off...eight lugs. Then I have not idea what to do next. These are not like regular drums I am used to on cars...where the drum fits over the bolts.

The bolts are part of the whole turning assembly.

The only thing I can see to take off next is some big ol' cap looking thing in the center.

Hope that's a better explanation

Pull the cap in the middle off w/pliers, there is a cotter pin & nut to remove, then drum will come off.

On the front, you'll need to remove the cap, might need to remove the dually adapter to get to it, then there will be a large nut on the spindle. Take out the cotter pin, you should be able to remove the nut. The drum/hub will come off. It may require some persuasion to come off, some light smacks with a hammer or work with a small prybar may help.
The rear will depend on what hub it has. Earlier models have 4 (I think) recessed slotted screws that retain the drum to the hub. Later models use the wheel studs to hold it on, and the drum is actually behind the wheel mounting surface of the hub. This type requires that the bearings be disassembled. For this, you'll need to remove the 8 bolts on the hub, then remove the axle. You can then access the wheel bearing nut, which requires a special socket (available from the flaps). After taking out the lock nut, locking ring, ang adjusting nut, the drum will come off just like the front.
I will suggest that you get a shop manual before you go too far into repairs, if you don't have one already. Your'e going to need correct tightening specs for the bearings, especially the rear.

Hy guys, If they cap in the center of the front hub has an eight sided shape, it screws off, and then you can access the spindle nut and remove the hub/drum just as you would any other front hub/drum, other than that LONGBOX55 pretty well covered it, hope that helps.

Thanks feetside and longbox,
This sounds like it's going to get complicated.

Actually while working on the brakelines today...I actually broke one of the old rusted out metal lines.

Now another project, replace all the steel and rubber lines in front of truck. They are all pretty rusty and the rubber is frayed.

So the fronts...the cap just pulls off? No need to screw it off? I ask because it is six sided as if it would fit a huge socket.

Sounds like I can get the fronts done up, then probably take to a shop for the rears.

Thanks again

And there is the dream breaker...:^) Thanks 3B, I wondered why it would look like it needed a socket if it didn't.

So do I buy something that big? What is used to spin it off?

Oh...and I ordered that kit from Chevy...that is listed in tech tips. Does that have the shop manual or is that a different book?

HY guys, the front center cap shouldn't be all that tight, a pair of waterpump pliers should be able to get it to unscrew, hope that helps.

I have a 54 1 ton with the eight lug set up. I had to heat the front cap to loosen the gunk inside then put a strap type wrench on it and it backed off. It does not pull off, it is threaded!

The front are pretty basic like the guys said. The backs are pretty serious stuff. I would recommend a profestional but you have a book comeing & we can give you blow by blow directions if you do it yourself. If you don,t get them on right & ruin the axle you really have a problem.

Sablesurfer,
It's not that technical. Just big and heavy and greasy. You need to get into the wheel's bearings. Those hubs and drums are quite heavy and the bearings on a truck are huge. The rears are what is called a full float axle. That means that there is an axle bolted to the hub and once that comes off, the hub has a nut and big bearing that is lubed from the oil in the rear end. It makes a mess of gear oil when you take it apart. However, you may not need to mess with the axles. It is possible that the rear drum is just held in place by some machine screws and the drum fits over the lugs like you are accustomed to. You will need to soak them with some penetrating oil and possibly use an impact tool that you hit with a hammer to bust them loose.
If you do remove the rear bearings, make sure you grease them before reassembly. It takes time for oil to pump all the way out from the rear end to those axle bearings so they need lube until oil gets there.

All this and you haven't even started on the brakes yet!!! Good luck!!! Have fun...

Updating this thread...I got the caps in the middle of the wheels off on the fronts. It really was as simple as a strap wrench. They were only very lightly snugged in.

(Which I did not expect from the way they are hacked up like someone took a hammer and chisel to them at sometime.)

Then the nut was there with the cotter pin.

After getting the nut off, the whole assembly slide right off. Be careful of the bearings, I wasn't and the outter ones fell out on the ground, will have to check those.

I am figureing might as well repack them with grease while they are out, they look pretty good and spin fine.

Now to actually fix the brakes.

Dave

My 2 cents. I'm looking at basically this same project this summer. From what I've gathered by the manual and these threads, shouldn't he have to replace the rear axle seals and put on a new lock nut ring? It also was apparent to be careful not to douse the break pads from the rear axle oil. Would it also be a good time for him to check the condition of the wheel bearings? Perhaps somebody could describe what to look for if they are shot. Can anyone address this?

Kyle