The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Valve Cover and Oil Pan torque specs?

I'm doing a valve adjustment on my '51 216 and I'm wondering what the correct torque specs are for the valve cover?
I searched around a bit but didn't find anything specific. I've read if you over tighten it the cover can spread at the base causing leaks.

I'm also scraping out the oil pan and didn't know if there were any specific torque specs for that too?

AND... yes or no - Ultra Black silicone RTV sealant on both gaskets and if no what type of sealant do you recommend?

THANKS!

I've never used a torque spec on either one. I don't know if there even is a torque spec. I just run them up good & snug. If there is a torque spec someone will post it.

Torquing something with a resilient gasket like a valve cover won't give good results, brcause the gasket will compress. On something like an oil pan, I like to get the bolts snug, just to the point where there's no more free spin of the bolt, then tighten another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. A 216 valve cover with only two bolts is hard to estimate- - - -too much and the gasket of the cover is damaged, too little and there's a big leak. remember it's always possible to tighten a little more- - - - -once the gasket is over-squeezed nothing much helps.
Jerry

I didn't think there were. Figured Id ask before rather than find out after. Thanks for the tips!

Any input on the type of sealant?

After reading a recommendation in this forum over 8 years ago, I have used weatherstrip adhesive to attach the cork gasket to the valve cover (and side cover, and oil pan). I put no adhesive on the other side of the cork gasket. Then I attach the parts as described by Hotrod Lincoln - do not over tighten. I have not had a leak and I have had all parts off (and then put back on) multiple times.

Also, it is quite common for these sheet metal parts to be deformed near the bolt/screw hole due to over-tightening in the past. The screw holes in the sheet metal should be punched back out, if they look like they are deformed inward. Otherwise, you will have leaks.

Whwen I don't know the torque specification on something I just refer to the bolt size and grade. Plenty of info around on that sort of thing. Just keep the applicaion in mind.

I think other than cork gasket applications, the torque for size and grade principle can be applied. I wouldn't use it on the mentioned covers though (which was the original subject).
Hotrod is right about the tightening of the bolts on these and Tim makes a really good point about cover deformity. Both tips well worth remembering for future rebuilds.

Jerry

The Chevrolet Shop Manual does give torque values for the oil pan (6-1/2 to 7 ft-lb for the flange screws and 12-1/2 to 15 ft-lb for the corner screws), but not for the two valve cover nuts. I'm sure that they do not need to be torqued as tight (25-30 ft-lb) as the stud nuts for the rocker arm shaft supports.

Most published tables for torque values are for metal-to-metal or hard-gasketed joints (like a head gasket); most machine design books say that the torque for a joint with soft gaskets needs to be determined experimentaly (i.e., find out what works). I've had good success with the methods that Tim and Jerry describe.

Hoyt