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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,232
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,232
How can I add an insulator between the carb and intake manifold on my '54 3100 235 w/Rochester B? The carb doesn't have an insulator and the mounting studs are too short to add one.

Can I (easily) replace the studs? What do I need? Where do I get them?

I have an insulator from Chevs of the 40's.

The truck runs OK, but since I am going to rebuild the carb (to improve the accelerator pump operation) and add new lines, I'll add an insulator while I have the carb off.

(There is another thread running that touched on the subject.)

Thanks for your help,


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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The studs are simple screw-in items, but several decades of being threaded into the manifold might make them a little hard to remove. I'd suggest threading two 3/8-24 nuts onto the stud, and jamming them tight together, then using the lower nut to try to back the stud out of the manifold. If it's stubborn, apply penetrating oil, and heat if necessary. Vise grips or a small pipe wrench are a last-resort method. Just don't twist one off trying to get it out. The stud will have a 3/8-16 thread into the manifold, and 3/8-24 threads at the carburetor flange. They're standard hardware items, but you might need to find an industrial supplier like Grainger or MSC, etc. to find a good assortment of lengths to fit your needs.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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Joined: Oct 2010
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Jerry -

You are always right-on! Thanks for the info. I'll remove the carb next week and start soaking the studs with MasterBlaster. The thought of twisting one off inside the manifold makes my skin crawl!

I assume that I should buy hardened studs and wipe on some anti-seize when I screw them in.

Thanks again.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,756
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,756
For no more torque than they'll get holding the carb on, Grade 5 will be OK. Grade 8 would be a bit of overkill, I believe! Anti-sieze is always a good idea!
Jerry

Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 04/27/2011 4:57 PM.

"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,644
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Shop Shark
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You can go to a FLAPS and get the studs they use them for exhaust pipe to manifold apps.

Pete

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,232
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,232
Thanks Pete,

That's good to know. I'll post my results when I get everything back together.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all

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