The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Questions on my 216

so I went and picked up a 50 from my grandpa this weekend and am trying to make sure I know everything I can about it before I start tearing into it. I took the castings and found out it is a 216. My grandpa said that he "had it converted from a dipper to an oil pump". I have done some reading on this forum and others and think I know what he is talking about, but figured I would ask to confirm. I would like to know whatever information you guys might be able to gleen from these pictures and numbers. I snapped some pictures to help. I have put arrows to the areas where the external oil filter is located. I was curious if this would be a "full flow" or "full pressure" system or what the hell is going on.

I am also trying to figure out if this engine is going to be sufficient or if I need to upgrade to a later 235. Here in Phoenix, you don't really go anywhere without jumping on a freeway. Would putting an overdrive transmission and proper geared rear end allow this engine to hit the freeway as needed?

Engine markings are as follows.

Above the starter:
FAAI88349

On the engine block forward of distributor:
GM 48
3835253
17

And below are the pictures.

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111847b.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111849.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111849b.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111850.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111850a.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111851.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111851a.jpg

http://www.cfincher.com/images/50Chevy/0405111851b.jpg

The external plumbing is just the normal line routing for a bypass oil filter. All stovebolt engines, even the dipper types, have an oil pump. He might have had the engine converted to pressure-lubed rod bearings, but the oil pan would have to be removed to check on that modification.
Jerry

Would the oil pressure when it is running give me an indication?

Maybe, but the only way to be certain is to drop the pan, look for dippers on the rods, and remove at least one rod cap to see if insert bearings have been installed. The crankshaft journals will also have an oil passageway drilled into them if it's been converted to pressure oiling at the rods, and the troughs in the pan will be removed.
Jerry

So I put the new fuel pump on and got the truck running on its own. I didn't let it run very long though because it needs a water pump and the carb was leaking as much fuel as it was putting in the engine. But it ran and idled on its own.

The good news is that the oil pressure gauge was pegged at 30 psi.

The bad news, it has a pretty nasty knock. Not sure what thats all about, any ideas? I figure I will have someone with a little more knowledge about these trucks come take a look. Hopefully it isn't to bad.

Thanks,
Chad

Hello
The FAA serial number indicates a 1948 Passenger Car 216 built in Flint, MI. per:
this.
So apparently the motor was swapped at some time which is not unusual - a lot can happen in 60 years. I agree with Jerry, you will probably have to pull the oil pan and look for the dippers and troughs to know what's been done.

So I pulled the valve cover and found that there is a bent rod. As I spin the rod you can hear the same knock.

I got a dumb question. How can I spin the engine by hand? The water pump is siezed so I really only have the crank to work with but a quick look at the crank didn't show any easy way to get a socket on it to spin it around.

I think the easiest thing to do is remove all the spark plugs (so you're not turning against compression), then use the fan blades to turn the engine. You usually have to push down on the belt with your other hand to prevent it from just slipping, but it usually works.

BTW, don't forget to take it out of gear first, like I did once . . . DOH!

-Michael

Yeah, the fan blade trick isn't going to work on this one. The pump is siezed up so the fan doesn't move. I had to take the belt off to test fire it. I may just have to turn it a little at a time with the starter.

Put the transmission in high gear, and pull the spark plugs. Gently roll the truck forward or back, and the engine will follow. We used that method to adjust valves and do other chores requiring turning the engine in the pit area of round tracks for many years.
Jerry