| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (BarryP, NorCal52Suburban, Hanks custodian, Bill Hanlon, rfs56trk, Donf, Frank50, Gazz),
122
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,134 Posts1,056,740 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#73855 02/25/2007 5:32 AM | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 | Got my 4.10 third member today. It was costly, $250,but in great shape. Got it from All American Classics Inc. There in Washington and have more if your looking for one. 360 254 8850 ask for Tim. All though the gears are in great shape the extierior need to be cleaned up so I scraped off the worst of it and plan on using mineral spirits and a brush to clean the rest. i can see were some crap go into the third member during shiping so I want to flush out the gears and bearings as well and then blow it out with the compressor before installing, is this the excepeted pratice? I also will be installing a pionion seal, I thought this would be easier to do once it was mounted, is this the case? also heard the torque was 200 lb once for the nut, is this true? any advice would be appriciated.
thanks | | |
#73856 02/25/2007 3:48 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Clean it all up real good & shoot some gear lube on the bearings & gear teeth. Scrape the gasket surface real good. It,s a good idea to put the pinion seal in now but you will probably need a good air impact & socket. The torque is somewhere in that range but you may have to go furthur to line up the cotter pin holes. These do not use a crush sleeve so the exact torgue is not critical.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#73857 02/26/2007 6:24 AM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | I would clean it before putting it in, if possible. Also, don't leave the gears set without oil on them (after cleaning) they will start rusting overnight.
Wrenchbender is right about torquing the pinion nut. Book calls for 160-240 ft-lbs, iirc. But that is only needed for the initial trunnion install, when it was new. Besst thing to do, if the nut hasn't been loosened, is to use a center punch and mark the nut and the end of the shaft. That way you know where to turn the nut to when it goes back on.
To loosen the nut without an impact wrench a big pipe wrench and cheater is usually needed. I think the nut takes a 1-5/8" socket, and it needs to be thin walled, not an impact socket.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
| | |
#73858 02/26/2007 7:47 PM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,228 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,228 | A good high pressure car wash will clean that right up. Just spray the gears with WD40 when you are done. Gears are tough, so a little surface rust won't hurt them a bit. For sure put in a new seal, like Fred stated, use a long pipe wrench with cheater bars on them for leverage.
Joe | | |
#73859 02/27/2007 6:24 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I say put the pinion seal on last. I had to remove the pinion and change shims several times doing the '59 rear end for my GMC. I ruined a new pinion seal doing it. | | |
#73860 03/08/2007 6:43 PM | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 | thanks for the help guy's | | |
|
|
| |
