| |
Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
Plenty of places to share. | | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
2 members (3B, 1955 1 Series),
36
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,009 Posts1,055,296 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 56 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 56 | Hi all. After 3 years of use, and a 2 year restoration, I now have headlamp problems. Low beams, great. High beams after a few minutes use, all 4 headlamps go off and on. It is the original harness. I have replaced headlamp switch, using two different aftermarket supliers, and dimmer switch. Checked all wiring/connectors for damage, and eliminated ammeter and ignition switch from power sources. Tapped power directly from battery. I changed grounds, and have checked voltage at all headlamp connectors. I have read in the searches of excess draw due to old wiring, replacement switches not having adequate thermo protection, and halogen bulb demands. I have the same lamps that were in it when purhcased 6 years ago, they burn very bright. I am now turning to the experts here. Please reply with your experiences. Does anyone have good referral for replacement wire harnesses without spending the ridiculous $500.00 price tag. I have also read about installing relays, but question why it would start now after all these years. Grant. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | from the symptoms I would say it's weak bimetal breakers on the switch, but if you're satisfied the replacement is good, then it has to be something in the wiring that's causing excess current draw .... make sure all your grounds are good, the ones from the headlights on the core support particularly .... a relay shouldn't be needed if you have the correct wattage original type bulbs [50W] a correct original style harness runs 200 at American Classic - and note at the left of the forum page, could be a good discount right now  Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I put a relay on my high beams in my 58. The factory wireing is not stout enough for all those lights. If you have Halegens they pull even more. I put relays on high & low on my 70. It increases the amount of light. The parts are cheap if you make it up yourself & you can buy a kit with everything including instructions for about $30 They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | It sure sounds like the thermal breaker activating. When this is happening, if the breaker were interrrupting things, it would probably buzz and get very hot. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 | I replaced the light switch in my 59 with one from a vendor. The lights would stay on for 2 minutes or so and then blink off and on. Checked every ground on the truck an could find nothing wrong.Put a simple little relay in and no more problems.
Tommy 59 apache 1/2t 261 short stepside | | |
| |
| |