The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Rear floor pattern for 1947-54 Burb?

Hello all.

Just getting around to replacing the linoleum floor (with rubber flooring, for now) and was wondering if there is a pattern (and detailed specs) for the floor, including where seat posts go and ideally the contours of the flooring. Or, what have others done to get their new flooring measured and cut correctly? If there is a thread already, point me to it. Couldn't find anything specific.

I have never seen a factory pattern (or specs) for a 47-55 Suburban rear floor.

Do you still have the original rear floor plywood in your suburban?

Do you have the floor plates that go under each seat-floor bolt?

If you have the above items, have you tried to make a pattern?

I made a pattern by placing roofing paper over the floor, placing the floor plates in place, and drawing where the cut-outs and edges would be.

If you do not have any linoleum left, you would not know how the width of the lengthwise grooves. Are those the "contours" you refer to? I'll measure that, if you want (I dimly recall that they were about 3/4" apart but that is a guess).

There was a guy who claimed he was in the process of having them reproduced.We haven't heard from him for a long time.

Contact WEEDS , I am sure he used a pattern when he redid his floor in the suburban.

might work some info out of this thread and the links therein

Bill

Thanks all. I have chatted with Weeds and look over several posts. I think I just have to do the best I can in making a pattern. Was hoping for something out there already put together.

Torman, come over to the ranch, I have a burb floor sitting outside you can use for a pattern. .................g

Do you still have the original rear floor plywood in your suburban?

Do you have the floor plates that go under each seat-floor bolt?

If you have the above items, have you tried to make a pattern?

If you have the original floor and plates, it would take about an hour of work to make a template/pattern (plus buying the roofing paper).

George: Thanks so much.

yes, there was a guy who said he was going to make this flooring. and was to send me samples that I just never got. he had my address etc. and I sent many photos

but, nothing

Yeah, I am going with a rubber flooring for now that looks great. Some SB in the Midwest suggested it (available at farm supply stores) and I think it will work great (until there's a more original option).

I have been keeping my eyes open for rubber flooring wide enough to go wall to wall but have not found anything yet.

It's out there. You can get it in 5 or 6 foot widths. Google American Flooring for example. It won't be cheap, but it's out there. Did someone say that Tractor Supply has some wide width rubber? Maybe.

Yes, Tractor Supply is where I got it (availability varies):

http://www.tractorsupply.com/equine...ility-mat-60-in-x-96-in-x-1-4-in-5040835

I saw somewhere it showed someone step on redoing the wood floor itself does anyone have the link? and is the wood held in form the under side by those square nuts? top side are domed like carrage bolts?

WEEDS Lot's of pictures too!

Thanks you always come thru

Is there a trick to getting the outer surround metaloff the one shown here in weeds pic i have all thecarriage bolts out but seems like the channel is rusted to the side wall??
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JaFTEpkSJHQ/RszVlnC_b3I/AAAAAAAAAGQ/UWO1dL_nX6g/s640/DSCF0860.JPG

You will need a grinder, it's welded in.

On the flat side or up and down side or both?

It should be visible from the top side against the body panels/wheel wells. No welding from below.

BTW: I have not done this, so I am guessing the grinder would be the best tool, you may need to use a chisel to minimize any damage.

Spot-weld cutter would be useful. There are over 20 spot welds that hold the angle strip to the side wall. Have you removed the paint from the strip? After doing that, you should be able to see the spot welds.

Do you intend to remove the plywood floor in one piece (and replace it as one new piece)?

I have not removed that strip or the floor, but I talked with a person who had done it. I cannot remember if, after the metal side strip was removed, the wood could be angled out the rear door, or if the wood had to be removed from below (with the body off the frame).

No i have not removed the paint yet i guess i better LOL i didnt even think about it being spot welded in and yes i plan on to atleast try and get the wood out in one peace and new back in

When I had my rear body panel off of my 'Burb it seemed you could tilt the wood down and slide it out. With the wood tilted down you would clear the inner wheelhouse panels. The rear body panel came out pretty easily, and there were only a couple -4- welds or so to remove. Just a thought.....

I agree, Phillip. With the rear rear body-panel/skirt off the floor board should come out OK. If someone tried that, do you think they would have to worry about the body spreading outward a little?

Did you still take the other trim off too or did u just take the back one off ?

Tim, when I pulled my rear body panel off the sides of the body were very stout. I never moved the body around when it is was without the rear body panel but it seemed sturdy to me.

BigTony, I only removed the rear body panel so my body tech and I could properly repair the inner lower quarter panels. I never actually pulled the floor. But at that time I realized with a little effort it would come all the way out with just a little more effort.

Ok i took one upper side off at the spot welds and we where able to get the floor out it was a work out for sure the problem was where the wood is wider at the front so it was a SUPER tight squeeze LOL
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG1618.jpg

Nice! Nothing worth while is ever easy.....

I was thinking the same thing as you George.I hope you took some step by step pictures of the process.

Thanks,Tim

bigtony55,

Yes, pictures please. This post should go into a hall of fame. A few people have posted that removing the floor out the rear opening was not possible but I doubt if they tried.

How many spot welds were there? I think I was told 28 but I did not try to count them when I had my metal stripped down.

Ok guys we cheated a lil bit to get it out yes the body was one and yes we cam out the back but as you can see inthe one pics the upper part of the wood gave way when we did it which helped we came straight back as far as we could then started to rotar the back side of the wood up and out and various angle and with a lil UMPF LOL it popped out we only broke free one side of the channel too the main problem getting the woood up from the get go was the rolled edge in the wheel wells one we got past the getting it to the back wasnt so bad (soory i jumped around in my discription)
Channel still in pass side
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG1635.jpg
Channel out driver side
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG1634.jpg
floor out one peace
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG1624.jpg
underside will all braces still attached
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG1625.jpg
CHEATER CORNER THAT GAVE WAY
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG1626.jpg

bigtony55,

Thanks for the update/clarification.

If you will be making a new, single-piece replacement floor, be sure to take photos and let us know how this went.

Oh yeah, how many spot welds did you have to cut?

If i counted right it,the holes in side of panel anyways its 16-17 i wasnt 100% if the 17s was a hole from spot weld or not i had my buddy in there doing it for me