The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Fwd drive shaft bushing

Is there a pin that holds in the fwd bushing on a 52, 1/2 t.torque tube? Can I just drive the new okie bushing on without removing the old bushing? Thx.

Glenn,

As I understand it, some had pins and some didn't. I was told that the pins were on the bottom of the torque tube. When looking for it, I was told to use some fine grit sand paper and lightly sand around the underside of the torque tube about 1/2" back from the end. It should show up.

Hope this helps and hope you find it.

Joe

Glenn;
Here's a pic of the one I found on the top of my torque tube. There was also one holding the rear bushing. As Joe said, you need to clean up the entire front end of the shaft to see if it is present. There is also a lot of info on this subject if you use the search function.

Mike


http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2904749450010188466FfYwRn

Thx Joe and Mike,
Actually geezer I was doing a search when I saw your pics. I hadn't heard of that pin before so, it raised the question. I really didn't find an answer to it. Some guy's said no pin and other said they had one. I assume it has to be removed to move the bushing. How did you remove the pin geezer? Also, did you use that long nose visegrip to pull the bushing? That's a pretty narrow space between the bushing and the drive shaft. I could use any advise. I would hate to buy that $39. puller just to use one time. Thx.
Glenn,

Glenn;
I also tried to buy the puller but it was on perpetual backorder from everyone. Here's how I did it. Once I cleaned the outer torque tube housing, I looked carefully at the dowel pin. It was peened over with a punch on two or three sides. I took my cordless drill and drilled a small pilot hole in the center of the pin. Then I used successively larger sizes (twice, I think) to get the pin out. You just need to be careful to not drill too deep. Once the pin was out, I used a narrow round punch and working at an angle going from the rear of the truck towards the front..... Rear(\)Front..., I drove the bushing out until I could get the visegrip on it. You need to get it moving out the tube, then back up the punch in the pin opening a little and then drive it out some more. I did not need to heat mine. I then just wiggled it back and forth until it came out. Once out, I shined a light down the torque tube. That's when I found the inner shell of the bushing riding on the shaft. I used needle nose pliers to get that out. I then used a narrow screwdriver and tough paper towels to wipe out the area between the shaft and the tube housing. Once out, I froze the new Okie bushing I bought from Jim Carter for a couple of days to shrink it, lubed it up well with bearing grease and used a piece of round wooden closet hanger bar and a 2# hand sledge to drive it in. Drive it until the end of the bushing is flush with the torque tube. Also, before you drive it, make sure that you use your fingers and check if the splines on the shaft are burred. If they are, you will need to dress them with a file so they don't tear the Okie bushing seal when you drive it back on. My Okie was tight so I did'nt repin it. The pin is to keep the bushing or Okie from spinning in the tube. I may use a bit of JB Weld in the old opening to hold it though before I do any serious driving. Hope this helps. BTW, I also read that some of the tubes don't have the pins especially after '49 or '50.

Mike,
Thx a million. That is a great discription. Now I have to check to see if I have a pin. Corect me if I'm incorrect. You use the narrow punch in the pin hole right? It must not move but a 1/16 - 1/8" at a time right?
Glenn,

Glenn; Correct. Used a punch with a very small tip to fit in the pin opening but big enough not to bend and provide some oomph to move the bushing. It only moves a little at a time, about what you stated. Make sure that there are not more pins around the tube as well. Think that some mechanics in the past may have drilled additional ones.