The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline rounded head on bolt

OK really dumb probably. I was replacing my thermostat on my 54 3100 and I rounded one of the bolt heads. I tried vise grips and it is not budging. Any easy suggestions I have forgot?

52Beekeeper:

Craftsman makes a tool called a Bolt-out. It looks like a socket but the inside walls are made to grip the head of a rounded off bolt. It has worked wonders for me on several occasions.

Hope this helps.

X2 on the Bolt Outs.

Thanks guys,
Dont you love it when simple stuff takes all day!

So are you using a 12 or 6 point socket or wrench?

Another way to do it is to find a nut that will sit on the head of the rounded bolt. Weld through the hole in the nut onto the head of the bolt (sometimes a challenge for me to get good penetration on the bolt head before getting the nut filled, but I'm not an expert with the welder) to put a new head on the bolt. I suspect that the heat cycle from the welding may also loosen rust in the threads. Before doing this think about whether there are parts in the area that might suffer from the heat of the weld.

I always use 6 point (both sockets and wrenches). Less chance of rounding off the bolt.

Welding is a good option if you can do it reliably. Weld a nut on it, or even the end of a rod and grab that with the vice grips, or often I'll just weld a little pile on the head, grab that with the vice grips. And if it is a rust problem the heat of the weld is quite helpful.

Grigg

Much easier to weld a heavy washer on the bolt head and then a nut to the washer than trying to weld a nut internally. Gets just enough heat on them usually to help them bust loose. Thermostat housings are notorious for rusted bolts due to gasket leakage, good luck!

Try to get some penetrant on to the threads, possibly under the lock washer, before you apply too much force to the bolt; otherwise you may snap the bolt and then problems really begin. Since it's not budging with the vise grips most likely it's rusted...

I vote for the Bolt-out set too. They are like an inside ez-out. However if you decide to weld here's a tip. Use a raw biscuit to cover the surrounding area to prevent splatter and accidental arcs.

May be easier to work on if you remove the entire waterneck from the engine where you can clamp it in a vice.

Wow,
Thanks for the advice guys. I am only able to work on my truck on Sundays as I am traveling south to work the bees all week. I have ordered the bolt out from Sears so I guess I will try that first. I actually thought I would remove the neck next. I can weld and thats an idea I hadn't thought of. I hope to get some pics of my truck up next week as I'v got some questions about that too. I have to educate myself about this truck. For instance the guy told me it was a 52 when I bought it but when I got the title last week it says it's a 54. I know the back bumper is not stock as it actually has a hitch and kind of wraps the rear fenders and is bolted through. It actually looks pretty good and fits well. My truck has the hood ornament, how come others of the same model dont? My front grill is painted, was a chrome grill an option? I sure am enjoying this sight and really do appreciate the help.

Factory hood ornaments are sort of rare but reproductions are available more trucks without than with. People will say jury is out on chrome grills for 54 but I owned one once. Truck that was a barn find Raymond Idaho original owner(3600 stake bed) been in storage for years and it had one. They sell reproductions of them for about $700.