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Joined: Nov 2010
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I have decided that with a ~pretty much stock Crate motor(no cam) that there is really no need to install headers.

Reasons being, no real (super need) for power adding past the soon to be installed Edelbrock intake and Edelbrock 650.

And I'm all about not crowding the steering set up...soooo my question is:

Looking at the rams horn manifold, does anybody have a part number or year model that they might have used?

The flange exit point on the manifold is what I'm looking for..

thanks in advance for any info


Hank Flowers
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...if I understand your question correctly its a toss up as to how you handle the problem. First where is your steering box? If its in the original location I'm not sure what will work. Some have moved the box our toward the tire about an inch to make exhaust headers work. I personally cannot say that a set of Ramhorns will work..... I have a set off a 283 I'm using but my steering box is outside the chassis....but if I remember correctly the ramhorms still hit the side of my original steering box unless you move it.
Ramhorn headers are available but pricey!! Whew!! Some say Corvette ramhorns?
I got lucky. An old friend gave me my set.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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no steering box in this case. I'll be using the power R/P.
my thinking is the swept back exhaust exit manifold will allow for an easier routing of the tube, and keep the engine box a bit cooler.

The issue is with the small block chevy motor exhausting, over the years Gm has made several manifold configurations due to assembly needs.

I was hoping to hear from some guys who might have gone this route, in place of the standard "block hugger" headers.

it's not that they (headers) won't work, I would however prefer a cast manifold

So the issue becomes, which year manifold actually works. Since your friend gave you a set.....what year were they? And what did they come out of?


Hank Flowers
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one other thing to consider as well is the brake pedal,if you're running cast iron manifolds and using the stock brake pedal it could contact the manifold...mine did...I had a buddy step it over about 1 1/2" to clear...rams horns would not work on my truck due to having a pacer front end under it..I had to use rear dump manifolds..I ended up using what i was told were off a early chevelle...They happened to have a dip (that i'm assuming was for the steering box)which was perfect cause thats where my steering shaft needed to go as well.......dave


1949 Chevrolet 3100

"When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
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moondoggie, there is a pic of mine in my photo bucket listed below. They were off a 62 engine but a friend of mine said they came off a TRUCK as they had the "bosses" for an oil cooler or something else.
I have also seen some guys use 265 cast iron headers but they're scarce as chicken teeth.

It may also be worth a trip to the salvage yard and just take a walk looking at small block chevies. In your situation I'd think several would work. I've "heard" guys say some off a Chevelle would work but I don't have first hand experience with them. Maybe David can tell you what year he used.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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I was kinda on the same path as David has mentioned, using a rear dump manifold would look to be the answer.

BTW I will not be using the stock brakes or clutch. I'll be using a through firewall with two master cylinders and hanging pedals for my set up.

thanks for the replies...yeah pretty much looks like a junkyard excursion...


Hank Flowers
Cut and Shoot Texas
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http://flic.kr/p/8RQvKZ
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I'm wanting to say 65-67 chevelle...i honestly forgot what was on the hang tag when i bought them.....I've seen the same drivers side on alot of applications....but in my opinion the pass side looked pretty stupid the way they were designed,they didnt look like they matched.so i pretty much was looking for a decent looking set..I did come across a website once...might have been dorman that had pics listed or you could probly google cast iron manifolds and get some pics .....dave

ps...one thing i would suggest.once you find what your looking for have them blasted and paint them with por-15 exhaust manifold paint ...I used the factory cast and they look great..Jock used I think the stainless and his headers look really good too....just my opinion........dave


1949 Chevrolet 3100

"When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
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I used blockhugger headers by Headman,and they have worked out very good.

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Moondoggie I went with what was on my engine when I bought it.
(Junkyard cut-out)
They're obviously some kind of block huggers,but I have no idea who made them.
They clear the brake pedal just fine and as you see I've managed to get the steering round them too.
As Denny mentions, I blasted them and painted them with POR High Temp paint.
It got 'er done.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
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I am confused. headscratch You started your post saying your 350 will be stock no hot cam. That gave me the idea that speed was not an issue with you. If that is so why is mucho exhaust relief so important? My 350 crate is 330 horse because I ordered it with a mild cam because I like the lope you hear with a higher lift. I am running ceramic block hugger headers and perfectly satisfied with them. After all a truck with 80% of its weight on the front is not going to leap off the line unless you tub your rear fenders.


~Jim
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Originally Posted by jockbolter50
Moondoggie I went with what was on my engine when I bought it.
(Junkyard cut-out)
They're obviously some kind of block huggers,but I have no idea who made them.
They clear the brake pedal just fine and as you see I've managed to get the steering round them too.
As Denny mentions, I blasted them and painted them with POR High Temp paint.
It got 'er done.


that's a great pic...block huggers for sure..


Hank Flowers
Cut and Shoot Texas
1952 3/4 Ton 3600
http://flic.kr/p/8RQvKZ
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Originally Posted by BIG CHEVY 3600
I am confused. headscratch You started your post saying your 350 will be stock no hot cam. That gave me the idea that speed was not an issue with you. If that is so why is mucho exhaust relief so important? My 350 crate is 330 horse because I ordered it with a mild cam because I like the lope you hear with a higher lift. I am running ceramic block hugger headers and perfectly satisfied with them. After all a truck with 80% of its weight on the front is not going to leap off the line unless you tub your rear fenders.

I'm not really looking for mucho exhaust...I was thinking more on the lines of a cast manifold with a rear dump flange..

I was thinking this would do a couple of things..keep the heat down (of course I could use ceramic coated headers) and allow more clearance in the engine box by routing the exhaust straight out the back.

I bought the 350 crate with about 300 horses...no cam


Hank Flowers
Cut and Shoot Texas
1952 3/4 Ton 3600
http://flic.kr/p/8RQvKZ
Joined: Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by Moondoggie
that's a great pic...block huggers for sure..

It does start to get a bit 'busy' in there!


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,847
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I realize you said you saw no need for headers (although edelbrock recomends them for the set up you are describing, I am doing the same thing with my mustang) You might get a better fit with headers, and it should be a lot easier as you can just contact various header manufacturers and see what they have to offer, as this is a pretty popular swap. I'm not saying it will be cheap, I don't know that part, I do know headers for my mustang run from $150-$550 depending on the claimed efficiency, quality of materials etc...but it could be an option....

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Ahhh,install any kind of headers and you will automatically get better performance.Even with the short blockhuggers,that actually kinda dump like the ramshorn manifolds.And another added benefit is they look cool as hell.


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