The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (TUTS 59, 1 invisible), 89 guests, and 0 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,134
Posts1,056,402
Members48,441
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 98
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 98
I read the tech tip by Oeleson to adjust the box. Do those instructions apply to the big bolts or just the light trucks?
Any words of wisdom and advice is most welcome.
Thankyou

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,814
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,814
Virtually all worm-and-sector gear steering boxes adjust the same way. The worm gear bearing preload (the shaft where the steering wheel attaches) doesn't need to be adjusted very often. The sector gear adjustment needs to be tightened until there is just barely zero clearance as the gear passes the center point. I like to remove the drag link so the only thing that is moving is the Pitman arm, none of th eother steering linkage. Count the turns of the steering wheel stop to stop, and turn back exactly halfway. There should be a 10 inch-pound increase in turning torque at the steering wheel nut as the gear rolls over center, measured with a torque wrench. For instance, if it takes 7 in.-lb. to keep the steering wheel turning as it approaches the center point, it will rise to 17, then return to 7 after the center point passes. If the torque rises, then drops at the center, rises and drops again, the steering gear is worn out and cannot be adjusted.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 98
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 98
Sounds simple enough I guess. Tomorrow I`ll study what COE sheet metal I have to remove to access the gearbox.
If I`m understanding your explanation correctly if after adjusting the torque rises at the center and drops off towards the end of steering wheel travel then my gear is okay. If it rises then drops at center then rises again, then the gearbox needs a rebuild.
Thankyou

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
You should be able to access the steering box on a COE by removing the left front inner fender skirt. Otherwise, you will have to remove the grill. I have adjusted the steering box on both my Advance design trucks and on both it made a huge difference. It is worth the effort, most likely. Good Luck!

Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 98
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 98
I studied mine to death and adjusted it the best I could. Results are just a hair better. I did find noticible play where the cross shaft exits to the pitman and by the looks of the chisel marks I wasnt the first to work on the box. So I will remove and rebuild when I have a chance.
Not sure whether to pull the inner fender or grill just yet. But either method shouldnt be to hard as all that stuff was recently installed in last summer.
Thanks to all.
John Drabik


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0