The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Adjusting torsion bars?

I take a change and put this here since I guess it's close??

The PO tried to make a "lowrider" out of the '60 GMC. I removed the spring compressors from the rear coils (will replace the coils from my first donor truck along with new shocks later)and now need to adjust the front torsion bars to bring the front end up about 3-4". (I can't get under the truck to remove the starter bolts, kinda low huh? or am I just TOO big?) I'm not cheap and will spring for an aligment, but would need to get the starter worked on first, so I can truck going somewhere and have it start.

Can some one explain simply how to adjust these?

Jake

It's pretty simple, but you do have to get under your truck. I did it in my garage with a cheap jack and 4 jack stands. The torsion bar crossmember is just behind your transmission. You will see 2 bolt heads(7/8" I think) on the ends of the bolts that go thru the torsion bar adjusting arms which are on the ends of each torsion bar. You simply turn them. One way to raise the truck, and the other to lower it. Make equal turns for each bolt and take measurements from the ground to bottom of the front fenders on each side to make equal. You need to be on a level surface, of course. You may have to raise it and lower it a few times. It will also help if you kroil the threads on the bolts. I had to use a 1/2" socket wrench with a breaker to get them started. Once you change the height, the truck should be re-aligned anyway according to my shop manual. I hope this helps.
On a side note, I removed the bolts and special washers completely. I them cleaned and oiled them for ease of adjustment in the future.

One bit of additional advice, from the "been there/done that" club- - - - -raising the ride height is a lot easier if you jack up the truck and let the wheels hang free, unloading the torsion bars. Then take an equal number of turns on both adjusters, let the rig down, and take frame-to-ground height measurements from some convenient reference point like the frame rail flange at the bumper brackets, etc. Tweak the adjustments to achieve a level ride, side to side. It's a lot easier if you're not cranking up the entire weight of the vehicle with the jack bolts. Be sure and jounce the vehicle up and down several times, or take a ride around the block before checking ride height.
Jerry

On this subject, will lowering (or raising) the ride height by cranking the torsion bars affect the spring rate? Will it make the front end stiffer or softer one way or the other?

Brad

Yes, when lowering you relase the tension, the ride will be softer but will bottom easier. When raising, tension is increased, ride will be stiffer. Brian

Spring rate is established by the diameter and length of the torsion bar. Cranking it tighter might make the ride slightly rougher, but only if you take all the slack out, right up against the bump stop. The factory ride height setting was engineered into the vehicle. Anything else is probably a really bad idea.
Jerry

You won't really make the ride too stiff unless youraise it beyond the stock hight. I've cranked up quite a few late model 4x4 Chevies with the totion bar frontend. You have to be going beyond 2-3" above stock hight to stiffen the ride noticably.

Thanks Guys,

A question, while I have the truck on a pair of 3 tons jack stands (I just bought a new pair), If I remove the torsion bolts and clean them up will it be hard to get them back in position? Since I plant on changing the brake pads, wheel cyl, and spings for the wheels I suppose taking off the tire will only help lessen the weight probelm while I'm adjusting the 'bars"? err. right?

Just be sure the weight on the stands is being carried by the frame, not the control arms (A-frames). That lets the suspension unload as far as possible, probably down against the lower bump stop. I believe the adjusting bolts will re-start OK.
Jerry

Great, now if the jack I have can lift the truck up high enough (15 1/5" lift), I should be good to go. I gotta get a bigger jack.

I use a wooden 4x4 about a foot long on top of the jack.

The bolts and washers are easy to get back on. The manual sez to remove the bottom end of the shock absorber which I did to let the A-Arm completely relax when you raise the truck. After doing the job, I don't think I had to though.

Thanks Ken and Bigmacdaddy!

V-6 Fix Modelman,

after removing the torsion bar bolts and washers, make sure you get the wedges turned the correct way when re-installing them.

Hobert

That's a good point apachetrucks. They will only rock back and forth one direction! I think the results of getting it wrong would be catastrophic. Those parts are getting hard to find.