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AD Chevy Trucks

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Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

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THANKS!

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over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


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#720945 02/14/2011 2:03 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 38
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 38
My 1928 Chevy truck is getting close to having the body work done. I only have one more piece of metal facade to install around the passenger side pillar and then all the wood will be covered with the metal pieces. Now, I need some advice. There are about 10 pieces of metal that are installed with carpet tacks holding them in place. The ten pieces butt up against each other but there are gaps. In the old days, these gaps were leaded in if I remember right. The previous owner, who dismantled the truck by pulling and ripping everything off with a crow bar, caused a lot of damage at these seam areas but I have put them together so they are "close".... I still have a slight seam of as much as 1/8 of an inch that must be filled. Is leading still an option? Somebody "braised" (spelling?) the seams at one time too, but it was not done at the factory in 1928 (don't want to learn how to braise very badly either).....I considered bondo? and dismissed that.... fiberglass resin? Better, but still cracks too.... Leading? Can you still get this stuff? Where? or an alternative (Something from Eastwood maybe?)... I hate to leave the crack open so the wood is exposed.... Ideas and suggestions welcome, especially if there is a link to a website that shows/explains it all.... Thanks...

professor229 #720963 02/14/2011 3:32 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
Bondo will crack, braze tends to shed paint. I'd say body solder is what you need.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6

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