The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Bent left side steering arm/knuckle 1938 chevy HC?

I am attempting to install a CPP power assisted steering set up on the above vehicle. Everything fits except the forward drag link. The left side steering arm which connects to the drag link/power valve is only about 3/8 of an inch off the top of the front axle where it bends up to the spindle area. Pictures in my 1938 service manual and my parts cd show at the very least like 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch clearance from bottom of steering arm to the top of the axle. When I had the original stock ball style connections it did not hit the top of the axle but would barely not. Do I have a bent steering arm or is this normal? Can this cast steering arm be heated and or bent to straighten it out or will I have to find another left side steering arm. Any guidance or thoughts would be appreciated.
thanks old bald2

If you choose to do any bending, do it cold. Wrap a chain around the axle and under a jack, then jack up under the steering knuckle. We used to modify race car steering knuckles that way. Once it's heated, there's a strong risk of breakage where the heat was applied.
Jerry

I just checked mine and the steering arm is vary close to the top of the axle.Can't put my finger in between them.

On the 1/2 tons, GC model 37's, the arms bolt to the back of the spindle. Try loosening those bolts and lift the end you need higher and tighten the bolts back down. I had to do this on mine when I went to a adjustable draglink. You could open the holes a bit to get more clearance if yours is like mine.

Joe

Joe H,

My steering arm is attached to back of spindle on my 38 HC. I am also using an adjustable drag link for my California Performance products power assisted steering. Right now I have about 1/2 + inches between the bottom surface of the forward attachment point for the drag link just over the left side of the straight axle. My new drag link has the modern larger tapered units instead of the old ball style. It fits over the top of the steering arm with a tapered threaded shaft attach by a nut on the bottom. Its going to be close for it to fit, I may have to get a slimmer/less deep attachment nut or machine way some of the thickness of the bottom of the steering arm if your tip of lifting the front drag link attachment point of the steering arm and retightening or opening up the bolt attachment hole for steering arm it doesn't work. Are there modern style shorter stud drag link which would provide move clearance on the bottom the drag link attachment area on 37-38 left steering arm?

Be assured, your knuckles, spindles, and steering arms are not cast iron but forged from some really good steel. I have some tools from the 20's or 30's that are for bending/straightening the various front end components. Some of them I've figured out and others I haven't a clue on what their function was. Most take the same diameter solid bar handle and these range up to about 8ft for the longest.

When I changed my draglink, I had a piece of special 3/4" round stock threaded for modern tie-rod ends. Not the taper shank ends, the older ones with a straight shank that are direct replacement for the ball and socket ends.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Tie-Rod-Ends-1_2-Ton-pair/productinfo/76-005/

Filling Station, 1947 truck tie rod end,

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000014a~Z5Z5Z59971~P65.00~~~~S35D0NYB4Z69152318436b~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000014x

I still had to cut off some of the threads so it would clear the axle. I have about 3/16" clearance and so far, all the paint is still in place on the axle so I guess there is enough clearance.

I would thin down the nut, not the arm if you really need more room. And you might look into changing out that joint to the type I linked if you haven't tapered your arm yet. This type has a shoulder and straight shank so you can washer up the top side with a grade 8 washer to gain more room on the bottom side.

Joe