The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Where or how to pick up power?

In the rebuild process of my '51 3100 I am now rewiring it. I will be adding turnsignals that require a 12 volt source, they are the ones that the switch is down on the bottom edge of the dash,somewhat out of sight.I also added electric wipers that need 12 volt. And, I am reinstalling an aftermarket heater that was in the truck when I got it that has a 12 fan. All of these I would like to power up with Key on only.What is the best way to do this? Thanks.

except for the turn sig, which should be functional regardless if the key is on [can get power from the hot wire on the light sw], I'd want the ACC position on the key switch to power a fuse panel to feed the accessories

Bill

Be careful about running several accessory items through the ignition switch, as the contacts inside the switch can overload and burn. I like to install a small auxiliary fuse block somewhere out of sight, and power it with a continuous-duty relay like the square Bosch type that's used for electric cooling fans, driving lights, etc. A heavy wire back to the battery cable connection at the starter, of maybe one from the ammeter can provide power to the relay contacts. The only load on the ignition switch that way is a very small current draw to power the relay coil. The voltage gets switched on and off by the ignition switch, but the relay carries the load of the accessories. We wired cab and clearance lights on big rigs that way to take the load off the light switch.
Jerry

Jerry

Is this the type of relay your talking about ..click..? 75amp

I just hooked up turn signals a couple of weeks ago
Just like 1951 Elmer I also hooked up a 12v heater, 12v newport wipers.
My ignition is an original.

I ran a aux fuse block but grabed power off the ignition.
...fuse pic...(looks messy but cleaned up now). I can change it over and wire as you describe.


1951 Elmer
My turn signal lever clamped to the steering colum. I could not get to blinker light on the lever to come on. Then realized it had to be grounded for the light to come on. I had to clean off some paint. ...pic..

Thank you

That's a good relay, but it's a bit over-capacity for the loads you describe. Nothing wrong with a little overkill, other than maybe dipping into your pocket a little more than necessary. I'd reccomend something in the 30-50 amp range unless you're planning some high current draw upgrades like a big sound system amp or something similar later.
Jerry

I wonder if you could draw me a oneline diagram showing wire size,etc? And also the exact relay and where I could buy one. Do I understand you correctly, a smaller wire from the ignition toopen or close the relay and a larger wire to power it up? I think I found a small fuse box from Cabelas that is used on boats. Thanks

Hey Dads50; Thanks for reply. The signal unit I am using has a dedicated ground wire with it. I think the unit was bought from Jim Carter, Thanks

Elmer,

Here is the factory solution NOS to boot!
eBay #390278023377

Thanks Brad; I've now put that item on my watch list on Ebay and will keep an eye on it for a few days while I wait for a reply from Hotrod Lincoln and others. Thankyou

For all of you looking for relay information head over to Daniel Stern Lighting. It is packed full of info on installation, wire sizing, circut design and many other topics.

You can purchase good Tyco/Potter & Brumfield relays for under $10 each at newark.com.

Cole Hersee also makes good relays and switches terminal board fuse boards for automotive.

Dan Bentler

Elmer,

I bought one so let me know if you want a copy of the instructions and some pictures of the assembly.

Brad

I bought one too. Thanks for the tip. I already have tach, wipers and heater coming off my ignition switch and I'm fixing to install an electric fuel pump. I intend to give each it's own circuit now, fed off the ammeter lead and operated by a relay.

edit: I received mine and it is not what I thought. According to the MPB, Group 2.483, P/N 986630 is a BLOCK, (8 fuse terminals)(4 non-fuse terminals) This part has 2 non-fused terminals and is useless for what I wanted it for.

Here's one way to wire the Bosch-type relays. The wire numbers on almost all of them are the same.
Jerry

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/relay_schematic_001.jpg

Jerry; Thanks a million for your help on this,your info along with the help of all the others will allow me to go ahead and do it right the first time. Thanks again.

According to the MPB, Group 2.483, P/N 986630 is a BLOCK, (8 fuse terminals)(4 non-fuse terminals) This part has 2 non-fused terminals and is useless for what I wanted it for.

I found this at NAPA.
782-5316

It will suit my needs just fine.

Hey Cletis; That link didn't work!

Hey, you're right. It takes me to the napa home page. But if you put the number in the search box and play their game you can find a picture of it.

That Napa block is the same one Im have.
Didnt know Napa carried them.

It sure looks like it, Dad. What is the number on that relay you're using? I bought a cube one and can't find the amps rating on it. I like yours better.

I pick up that Horn relay at Orielly auto.
The numbers stamped on it are
JD114C7-12V
Didnt save the box, might be BWD Brand

Thanks.

Most horn relays overheat and start to cycle on and off after a few minutes of continuous operation. How long have you had that one in service? I used to try to run 18-wheeler clearance lights on horn relays, and never got one to last more than 15 minutes or so. You need a continuous-duty relay for that application.
Jerry

That is my horn relay any only operates the horn.
In that pic the power going to the fuse box is coming off the ignition (Green wire on top of fuse box).

My next step is to rewire as you earlier described. #10 off battery to a continuous-duty relay. #10 from relay to the fuse box. Terminal from relay back to ignition. I hope I described that right. (correction will be welcomed)

Thanks

OK, that sounds good. We had some problems with horn relays in unconventional applications some time ago, so I thought I'd bring up my experiences in case you were going to try to use one in a constant-on situation. No problem with a momentary-on application like a horn. If you happen to have a really heavy-current situation like charging an auxiliary battery, there's a continuous-duty version of the round solenoid switch available like a Ford starter uses. We use one of them on our motorhome to disconnect the coach batteries from the starting battery system when the engine is not running. This system prevents discharging the starting battery during several days in a campground, running interior lights, etc. off the coach batteries.
Jerry

I guess I'd best stick with the cube relay.

Just wanted to let youall know that Cabelas offers a pretty nice fuse block, both 6 and 10 fuse size. The item # is IK-011915. Thanks for all your help on this issue. Elmer

1951 Elmer

Is this the one you ordered?..
Are those non fuseable l1nks in the front?
The discription is not clear

Thanks

Yeh, that's it. The ones in front are for your grounds.

Elmer,

The original you bought is fused with these all the spots on the board is where one of these attaches that is how they are protected fuses stick out horizontally from the board. This is Denny Graham's stuff that he reproduced.


Just thought someone might be interested in what the original fuse holders that are pictured in the radio installation manuals looked like. Made up drawings from an original someone was kind enough to loan me. Takes a day to make one but I think it would be hard to tell them from the original one that was in the kit. These take the AGC or SFE 14.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/132578212/large
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/132578236/large
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL