The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve cover bolts/gasket ?

HI...two questions: I will be installing a new valve cover on my 235 should I use washers under the ss stove bolts and should I fill the threaded holes with RTV high temp?......Second question: what gasket compund do you suggest. I have always used Permtex and applied it on just a few spots on the cover to hold the gasket in place its a Fel-pro cork gasket is there a better way that I'm missing? THANKS, Steve

You need some kind of washer under the valve cover screws. Many of them used kind of a skinney metal piece about an inch long. It was to help even the pressure on the cover and not bend it. I have tried everything on valve covers. I think what works best for me is to put it in dry and just watch it carefully when you tighten it down to make sure it doesn't slip. It seems like sometimes gasket sealer just makes them slick and they slip out easier when they warm up. Some gaskets have little ears that hook to the valve cover to help hold it in place. I can't if a 235 does or not.
Hope this helps
Jim

Jim, My 235 does not have those ears which would be very cool. Have you ever tried Permetex it is red in color and is very sticky and impervious to oil or gas. Some guys say to put it on all the surface area of the valve cover and some say only in spots...of course do no put any on the head as when it comes time to adj. valves you could be in trouble...maybe someone else has some thoughts. THANKS, Steve

I've always used some kinda gasket sealer to stick any gasket on the sheetmetal parts only,not enough that it can be seen when installed. I use it to insure the gasket stays in place while installing parts.

Are you talking about the red permetex in the spray can? I have tried that, and it seems like after awhile you still have a leak. I think part of the problem is that the head and the valve cover are made out of two different materials and expand and contract at different rates, so ther is always movement around the gasket. One thing I forgot to mention is to make sure the gasket serfaces on the valvecover are flat. If the gasket has been tightened to tight it will bend the valve cover in the area where the screw seats. I have had to straighten many of the valve covers in this area.
Hope this helps.
Jim

I would use black silicone adhesive Napa # 765-1416
on the cover to gasket side.A very small amount spread evenly works well.Don't overtighten the cover and you should be ok.

I used to use stuff called Hi-Tack. It was red colored and in a spray can. Worked great for holding the gasket on sheet metal parts before assembly. It's been several years since I bought any. I recently went to a couple auto zone type stores and asked if they had any and they looked at me like I was from outer space, so maybe they don't make it anymore.

I like the rubber/cork I get at NAPA, they have the 'ears' that hold it to the cover. I always put them on dry. Doug

i use permatex#2... turn valve cover over place a small socket over the bolt holes and tap em out till flat. seal the gasket to valve cover, don't use any on head side of gasket..

hightack or trim adh ,,the trim works very well..doc

gtow69....I will get what you have suggested. Is it best to use in all over the cover or just a few spots here and there? Steve

Use a thin skim of grease on both sides of the cork gasket. This helps hold it in place and acts as a sealer as well.

Hobert

Just a very thin amount spread evenly on the cover to gasket side.Nothing on the head to gasket side.The advantage to this is you can remove the cover again to adjust the valves without replacing the gasket each time.Do not overtighten the cover.

THANKS, for all of your help!....Steve

Ghostrider;
NAPA carries the Hi-tack you mentioned,but it's gotten spendy. It works great though,so is still worthwhile. Most folks don't let their gasket goo set up long enough,and that's what causes the gasket to slip when tightened. Back in the day I'd usually apply the gasket cement,place the gaskets and press them down a bit to be sure they had good contact,then go have a soda and let them cure a little. By the time the break was over,they were set up enough to install without problems. Also,while letting the glue set up,I'd drop the mounting screws through all the holes-that helps keep the gaskets lined up. We used 3M weather strip adhesive(gorilla-snot) then,but now I use Permatex Hi-Temp copper silicone,it works for damned near everything-I even used it to seal a bad port surface on the rear exhaust pipe on my ol' Harley. It worked fine for the last 3 years,until I sold the bike.Probably still sealed.
Speed