The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Roof Dent repair

I am having difficulty getting two large dents out of my 1955 2nd series truck roof. I can not access the back of the dents. I am fairly new to body work and would appreciate any and all advise on the proper method of getting this type of work done. Thanks, Brian

yeah those are a bear if around the sides of the roof panel ... need to pull them, either by drilling and inserting some pull device or by welding a pin on to provide a pull ... in some locations you might need [or be able] to make a hole in the inner panel to push, then patch the inner hole .... approach depends on if there's actual creasing involved, which will make it tougher

Bill

You need a pin spotter-it spot-welds a small pin onto the metal, which you then pull using a slide hammer.

Thanks for the reply Bill. Both dents are on the rear corners by the drip rail. One I might be able to get at underneath but the bigger one I will have to drill and approach it from the top. But at least you have provided me a starting point.
Thanks,

Brian

If it is a simple dent, then you need to push on the middle of it and tap with a flat hammer around the edges. In this case, trying to pull out the middle will create new problems.

Thick, are you going to attempt this without the use of bondo, doing real metal straightening? If so, I would like to suggest getting a set of old school body hammers and dollies, an adjustable vixen file, making a "slapping file" out of a coarse tooth metal file and practice on some scraps with all of these tools.

The dents you are working with can definitely be repaired to perfection without bondo, but body metal is very thin and easily damaged. The slide hammer methods do a lot of damage that can be filled in with bondo if that is your intention. If you do not intend to use bondo, skillful bumping from the inside with a dolly and filing with the vixen to find the low spots then bumping from the inside with a pick hammer to bring up the remaining low spots will get 'er done.

You will be able to feel irregularaties in the contours with the palm of your hand if you place a thin piece of cloth between your hand and the metal and you will be able to see subtle irregularaties in the dim light of dawn and dusk.

Yar, he said he can't access the back of the dents. I guess he could cut a hole in the inner panel, work out the outer dent, then weld the removed metal back in, but that sounds like it could easily end up a mess of it's own.

I have a couple of thin dollies that might fit in between the inner and outer panels....

Brian, I've been there! Backed my 53 into my NEW 1 week old 5th wheel, denting the roof at the corner. Dent was as big as a soft ball! Mig welded a 3/8 nut on the center.2x4, 2ft long with a hole,3/8 inthe center. A peice of 3/8 althread rod about 1 ft long with a nut an washer. Then POP it out, might take a cuple of shots, but IT WORKED. Very littttttle bondo,came out like it never happened! ps the cornor of the camper just got a little paint on it, compounded out....Paul, let me know how you make out

Paul, The welding of the 3/8 nut worked on the top of the roof? If so I plan on trying that method because I cant reach the corner with any flat tools I have from underneath. Also, Do I work the nut and washer down to the 2x4, just a bit confused.
Thanks, Brian

I have had one of these Spitznagel tools for years.

http://www.dentfix.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=42&item=DF-1_Deluxe_Stud_Welding_Kit

It works very well and after I am done and have used a body file, almost no filler is needed. The tool can also be used for shrinking.

Brian, TACK the nut on 1/2 way around, incert rod, 2x4, washer WITH nut on top end. With 2x4 ON the bottom of the rod pop it up to the top fast and sure. Might have to do it a cuple of times. Then bend to the tack side weld and it will snap off. If you got to do it in other places do it.Grind off tacks when your done. Cheeper then a stud gun (if you got a welder) and most user frendly..I got to tell ya, I was a welder over 40yrs. And I know its not beond the reach off anyone with 2 thumbs. Go for it, keep me posted, Paul

Brian, I'll add a ps....You can try what we use to call a draw nut tech. which is welded nut, rod, nut, washer, THEN 2x4. Span each side with a wide base, enuff to bare the force of the 2x4 pulling up with the help of a wrench. It will come up slower this way,and you can alternate one way then the other.I did mine in the center, there was no crease and it popped right out. Paul

Thick,

Let me throw my two cent in on the stud welder. 1st. if all you have are a few dent to really worry about, I'd hate to see you spend 1100+ for the above mentioned stud welder.

I went to harbor freight Yeah I know what you're going to say) and bought theirs, IT WORKS GREAT,Pictures says a thousand words.

THIS STUDS FOR YOU - Sorry Budweiswer
http://www.harborfreight.com/dent-repair-stud-welder-kit-3223.html




See below.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2297968030054402330mciamN

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2005725450054402330zFrWdI

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2953630430054402330gmfohZ

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2134697280054402330jPupbx

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2259783560054402330hlaVDg


The cost of the Studwelder was 99.00 and I ordered a different Dent puller (American Made) for another $59.00. If you ever try to pull a dent fron the upper/outer cab corner on a 60-66 that metal is TOUGH, your roof mental is way easier to work with .

The entire album is here.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/570011449JVCLFX

Finaly found some time to work on the cab. First I want to thank everyone that responded, this really is a great site and all you fellow stovebolters make it that way. I took v6 fix modelman's suggestion and bought a stud welder from (Gup) Harbor freight. The tool worked great on the dents I have attempted to repair thus far and it appears that I will not need too much body filler. Thanks again,
Brian

I need to get me one of those. A tree fell on mine a few months before I bought it. Got the roof pretty good. Can't get to it from the inside because of the inner brace.