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I'm painting my truck using basecoat/clearcoat. PPG Shop-
line brand and things are going well. I have applied two coats of clear and needed to do some wet sanding. Still need to do a little more sanding, a little orange peel and pitting. Should I spray a couple more coats on before sanding more. I'm useing 1000 and 1500 grit. I'm scared of cutting thru the first and into the basecoat.The first two coats of clear have been on a couple months. Thanks Mike

Kinda hard to answer your question without seeing your paint job. What does the manufacture say? The material data sheet should instruct you on how and when you can repair or topcoat the finish. I'm old school and my understanding is once the clear has cured it has to be sanded and the color coat reapplied, before you can add more clear? All the clear in the world won't cover up paint flaws. Most likely it will magnify any imperfections! Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Well first you didn't say what color it is, which will make some problems for you like your light, colors white, light green creams etc. only because if you just recoat in clear all dark dirt specs will be traped between the old clear and the new topcoat. what I have done in the past is just like your thinking but remember if you break through the clear and see your bace color you need to re shoot that part then reclear the rest of your job.I used to have problems when I had to paint pearl whites or 3 stage. if tou sand just enough clear you should be ok

Let me first say I know NOTHING about painting but Yakimabowtie what is the point of applying a clear coat then sanding it completely off? sounds like a waste of time to me

silerado; Back in the older days like 30 years ago we used to put 3 or 4 coats on then sand and re paint the reason was the paint was thicker then and this was a away to make the paint look real flat, still ok to do. This is up to the painter and his money. I started painting back when 1975 was still called a year and sometimes I will still do this, and maybe his clear coat just didnt lay down flat as he wanted ???

I can see multiple base coats but yakimabowtie said apply clear and sand it off...i still do not follow

In an attempt to explain. I didn't say sand it "off". Back in the old lacquer days the color coats would be sanded "smooth", then the clear coat applied. In most cases the clear would be sanded "smooth" then "buffed" to bring out the gloss. Todays paints are applied a little differently. The color coat goes on "flat/dull" and the clear provides the gloss and protective layer. Once paint has cured, it has to be sanded in order for the new paint to "bond". Refinishing is a very complicated process, to say the least.

ahh so your saying in todays paints in between coats you have to sand it dull for the next layer to adhere? so is the glass smooth feeling achieved through the final sanding and buffing of the clear coat?

You don't have to sand the base color before you clear, unless there is a problem that you want to fix on color coat [dirt or run ] then you must re apply color , let it dry and apply 3 to 4 coats of clear then sand clear with 1500 and buff with a clear coat compound then use a sponge pad with lighter remover then hand wax the reason you dont sand color before you clear is because you will see sand scratches through your clear /its a long prosses thats why it cost so much for labor and not to easy for a first timer hope it turns out well

Mike lets get back to your question; you sound like you have done everything right so far, I have used that line of paint for years,vary good , now it depends on how thick those coats of clear are, as you know you can[ [censored] coat ]anything on and say its covered while two heavy coats will be more met.I allways say easer to put 1 or 2 more coats on then to start from the begining ,think about it. I allways put more clear on so later down the road if you get some light marks in the clear you can sand with 1500 and buff [ more clear cheper ]

Glen M,
I've got to agree with you that a couple more coats of clear can't hurt. You anywhere near the Lansing area. Always like to meet another Bolter.
Mike

Thanks for the lesson guys -sorry to hijack the thread

Mike I live near 696 and I 75 my daughter goes MSU so I go up that way, it is good to to hear others from MI

your best bet is to do your metal work and use etch primer or epoxie primer. a body shop will not want to paint over body filler if they do not know what it has been put over.

You do not use etch primer over body work. In fact there is no need to use etch primer at all. A coat of Reduced Epoxy Primer over everything, followed with the base coat within 1 hour.

Let the painter apply the Epoxy Primer (Sealer) when he's ready to paint the vehicle.

Frank Cox
Cox Custom Cars