The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline BRAKE REPAIR 1951 CHEVY 3100

IS THERE SOME PLACE I CAN GET DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO REPAIR MY FRONT AND REAR BRAKES? IT IS AN ALL ORIGINAL '51.

WHAT ABOUT REPLACEMENT PARTS SUPPLIERS?
Thanks, Martin

Martin, here is a link to the online shop manuals a stovebolter has been so kind to do.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

You should be able to get either rebuild kits and shoes from a local parts house. I have a 52 and got mine through Advance Auto. However, it probably won't be listed in the computer. I think about 1955 is as far back as they go.... but they can get them, usually overnight and no shipping.
I'm almost positive NAPA handles them.
Good luck, keep us posted. Hope the online manual shows you what you need. If not, the bolters will.

And of coarse, if you can't get what you need locally in Vancover I'm sure Chev's of the 40's or The Filling Station will have what you need and they are close to you which should help on shipping.

Thank you!

To remove the front hub do you have to remove the dust cover, nut, washer, and wheel bearing before you actually remove the hub?

Martin,

All is revealed in a Shop Manual at the link that Alvin (Achipmunk) posted above:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0501.htm

Hi Tim,

I did go to the link Alvin gave me. On page 5-11 on the right side bottom, bullet point # 6. says "remove rear brake drums and front hubs and drum assemblies". It did not say how to remove the front hub.

I just wanted to make sure I did it correctly. Sorry I made you angry and you had to submit your reply to my post.

Martin, yes remove the dust cover, cotter pin, nut and washer. Then the brake drum should slide right off the axle. Be careful sliding the drum off as the wheel bearings likely will fall out and you wouldn't want them falling into the dirt.

Not angry, just wondering if you had checked out your Shop Manual. The page you gave might not have helped you get the front hubs off. Most likely, you found this explanation for the front drum/hub?

It is not uncommon for the rear drums to be difficult to remove. Be sure you have first backed-off the shoes quite a bit. After you have removed the retaining nuts (if they are there), you might then have to pry or pull the drum, or lightly hammer the drum from the rear, in order to break the "rust weld" of the rear drum to the rear axle hub.

THANKS!!
Martin

My I join this conversation as I am doing my 52 3100. I have removed the drum and the hub / bearing came out with it. How do you seperate the two? What bolts do you press out? Denis

There's 3 rivets that hold them together. Those need to be removed in order to separate the drum from the hub. It is not necessary to replace them.

Thanks I see the three, what is the best way to remove them?

There's a couple of ways to do it, one is to cut the heads off the drive them out with a punch (aur hammer makes short work of that), or two, you can drill them out. Either way will work fine. Once the rivets are out, you may have to do some hammer work to break the drum free from the hub. Rap it between the wheel studs, that should break it free.

Ok I am good now. I appreciate the help! Denis

Why do you want to separate the drums. If you want to get them turned, don't separate them just yet.

I want to replace the drums with new ones. Denis

You 1/2 Ton owners are so spoiled. You can buy new drums! Oh, I wish the 1 Ton world was like that!