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I have a 1950 Chevy pickup and am planning to put in an open drive rear end. I have bought the front disc concersin kit for the front and thereby converted it to a 5 bolt hub. I understand that a 70's Camaro rear end will work for the truck. Has anyone installed onme before using an adapter kit you can buy with parts suppliers like CHevy Duty? What are the pitfalls and the proper way to align the differential to ensure minimum offset angles? Thanks! :confused: :confused:

Hey Richie-the mid to late '70's Camaro/Firebird is supposed to be a winner for these trucks, apparently. Very nearly the correct width. What you need is careful welding in alternating spots, from one side spring perch to the other to minimize warpage. This of course is AFTER you determine your pinion angle. Measure this using an angle finder, first laid flat against the end of your transmission output shaft. Then, you lay it flat against the pinion yoke, 180 degrees opposite to the output shaft. Example-if your transmission output shaft points 3 degrees DOWN from vertical, your pinion flange must point 3 degrees UP. Getting these angles right is VERY IMPORTANT-you could buid in driveline vibration if you don't! Also, you may have to fiddle a bit with the leaf spring locating hole in the spring perches-the stock rear axles weren't centered in the wheel openings. I hope this helps you out a bit.

Wannabe

I am running a 75 Trans Am rear axle in my 37. I also used 2" wider rear fenders. I don't think I needed the fenders wider but it does look better to me. I have seem some trucks with the tire right at the edge of the fender, I like them to fit under it a little. The axle width was the same as I took out. It had a 55 Chevy axle under when I bought the truck. I just cut off the spring perches and welded them to the new TA axle.
You can us a 70-78 Firebird/Camero axle, some even had rear disk if you can find one. I had mine mounted and bed on before I figured out the tires weren't centered in the fender. I never thought to move axle back, I allready had the driveshaft made. I ended up cutting the running boards back about 3/4" and moving the fenders forward.

The above post is right on, on the angles. Its really easy to do using a cheap angle finder. Try Harbor frieght, they have one that works OK for little money.

Talk to the brake people about what master cylinder to use. I ended up with a 68-72 Mustage manual disk/drum unit. It has a 1" bore. I had to install a adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line to keep from locking up rear tires to easy. I also have the Camero type disk's up front. Joe

I am in the middle of an open drive shaft conversion on my 46 that is in a thousand pieces (I bought it that way), I am using a mid 80's 4WD K5 Blazer rearend. The 4WD kept me with 6 lug so I can use original wheels. It also is limited slip.

I had to get new U-bolts and perchs. I found them for $4.10 a piece at a local hitch and trailer business. Alot cheaper than the supply houses that know they are for hotrodders and conversions.

I am now able to get back to work on the 46 and need the angle guage that is mentioned above. I have a Harbor Freight in town, what is the guage?

Mark

Go to HBF and check out item #342142VGA . Angle Finder for $5.99. Harbor Freight

Axle perches at a trailer supply place?! That's some good info. Thanks, Mark.

Wannabe