The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Possible Junkyard save

Just thought I would share the truck that I am in the process of trying to acquire. It has been sitting for awhile, but seems to be pretty solid. The owner of the junkyard is taking a long time to get back to me with a price and whether he can get a title for it. At least it seems a long time to me
It's a 1958 Apache 32.
I would like opinions on what this truck might be worth and if it is worth pursuing.

http://picasaweb.google.com/djjentink/58Apache

Thanks

Dan

worth very little .... holes in the roof for lights, holes in the bumper, holes in the hood for latchs to replace missing original, holes in the grill for goofy lights, missing seat, looks like the heater was leaking so it'll mostly be useless, windshield leaking from the look of the dash, maybe rotten above the windshield, both front fenders will need major repair along the back, right rear fender will be tough to recover .... if it's real cheap it could be a place to start as a '3for1' with a couple other cheap trucks

Bill

It looks like most trucks that old would look. If you like body work (and everyone should on this forum), you can make it a show truck. It will take a bit of work and time. IMO 55/59 Chevy trucks are the best looking Chevy ever made and that includes the 2010. The value is what you think it should be. If it's THE truck you want $3,000 or more. I would shop around first though.

Thank you again, squeeze.
So, what's the most you would offer for it? I'm not looking for a future show winner, just a long term project (training project) to do with my sons. I realize it will take some work, but I want to learn body work and I figured I could use the fenders to practice on, and if I do a really lousy job, then look for a replacement later as I can afford it.
The various holes I was thinking that I would be ok with. The possible leak of the heater I didn't catch. Thanks for pointing that out. Other than that, the cab seemed to be pretty solid without the usual rust spots in the corners. I did also have in mind that I would like to find one more to use for parts.

And BigChevy 3600....

I hesitate to say man, it's just so butchered I'm not sure I'd want to bother with it if it were free - so many things need replacing - 60's rear view mirror and visors - why's the drivers door need a barrel bolt to hold it closed? I'd expect to find the front cab mounts rotten under that rubber mat, and likely the door bottoms, as well as the lower hinge pockets, and if someone patched it that much to wring the last drop of use out of it, the entire driveline is probably toast ... if he'll let it go for 2-300 consider it, but more than that you should add up the parts value of what's actually good to see if it's worth it

Bill

I would value it around $500, not much more. Crawl underneath and check out the rust under the cab, and in the door hinge areas.

Good luck

John

There is probably a drivetrain there that someone could use on an AD truck. My truck was a lot worse than that one when I started but I wanted to learn on a project.

I have looked under the rubber mat and in the door pockets. It all looks solid with just surface rust. The door hinge area as well.
I'll check the cab mounts next time I drive by.
I, too, want something to learn on, so I figured this would be a good candidate.
In the meantime I have been looking around at the options. For my price range, this one has stood out so far.
Still looking for that "gem in a barn", tho.

Around here, trucks like that would run $500 or less, depending on whether the engine is any good. This will be a good one to practice on to learn and to determine what you can and can't do. In my opinion, if you want to make a really good truck, you're money ahead to buy the best truck you can find to start with. If you keep up with your time and expenses, you'll be surprised at how expensive this truck will end up being. I know because I went through this on my '64. If you get this one cheap enough, you can learn a lot about body work and painting while you look for a better one, then you can use parts off of this one. For best compatibility, you'll need to stick with 58 and 59. There are some differences between these and the 55-57's.

I think some of these guys are being a little harsh on the old girl! It completely depends on what you what you want in the end...If you are the kind of guy that has to have the right shade of Off Dove Concourse Elegant White on the inside of the widget whoosit, or if you are looking to build a concourse perfect truck, then this is not the one.

BUT if you want a truck to learn on that will be a good vehicle, that actually gets driven, and doesn't have to be perfect, this is a good starting point. From what I see in the pictures, you could run it on the road right now if it had a good engine and the brakes were ok. I'm from the Great Northwest, and compared to what you find in the low price ranges here that is a very solid, relatively rust free truck. The floors look good, so do the kick panels....Looks like the fenders are the worst of it, not too tough to either replace or fix. Engine is all there, probably figure on a rebuild though. You will need a new rear fender...

You say you want a project with your kid, I say this is probably a good one...I have a '66 in much worse shape that my son and I are building. Basically had to replace the entire drivers floor, cab mounts, kick panels and half the door pillar. Lots of work, but we had fun. Your's is in much better shape. We paid $300.

Not sure what trucks are worth in your area, but if I wanted that truck I would offer $300-$500, and probably be willing to go to $1000 on it. If it runs, I would go to $2000 maybe...Thats just me.

On thing to add, it is incredibly satisfying to save one of these old girls from the scrapper. My truck would have been razor blades by now, but when we are done with her I hope to keep her on the road for another 15 years or so. They aren't building any more of these, every one somebody gives up on is gone for good.

I am not the type that would garage a classic vehicle. I think these great trucks should be driven and enjoyed. I'm more the type in your second paragraph. This truck will be driven alot and enjoyed. It will also be a learning platform for me and my sons.
I have seen trucks in worse shape go for $800 around here, so that is my target price.
I am also thinking of getting a fleetside bed for it, so the right rear fender will be one of my "practice" pieces.
It seems that by reading between the lines of everyone's posts, the bottom line is, if the cab is relatively rust free, than go for it!?

as most of us know, it is worth what ever you are willing to pay for it..

Imagine the truck sitting there missing all the pieces that are mangled. Now, what would you pay? That looks like a good $400 to $800 truck depending on how bad you want it.

Thanks, all, for your helpful comments.
If I can get it for $500-$800 I think I will go for it. Maybe even up to $1000 if he'll throw in some parts!

Dan

Having slugged it out for three years trying to resurrect a rusted hulk, I'd never do it again. Instead of paying $500 for that truck my advice would be to be patient and look for one in MUCH better condition. That rust you can see is like an iceberg, 80% is hiding behind the paint.

Instead of jumping on this wreck why not post in the Trucks Wanted forum? I'm sure there's a sweet little number languishing in the desert somewhere with your name on it.

Good luck!

Hey ArmyChevy, I'd go for it! Yeah it practically needs everything but it would'nt scare me from paying up to 1000. for it. I live in the road salt belt here in MI and those trucks are long gone or swiss cheese filled with body filler. If you could get it for 800 or cheaper you'll be just fine. After all it's a junk yard save!

Now woody is an expert in resurrecting stuff that probably should have been a parts truck and his advice should be taken. You might want to buy this truck and hold it for parts, then look around for something in premo shape. Dollar wise you would be $$$ ahead. However if practice is what you're looking for...

Colorado is a virtual desert most of the time. The dents are what kills that truck.

The dents I can deal with. It will give me practice. I think overall it's a lot more solid than it looks in the pictures. If I get this one and keep my eyes open in the future, who knows.... and by then I will have had some experience on these rigs. Gotta start somewhere. With this one I wouldn't be as worried to mess it up as I would getting a nicer truck right off the bat.

Dan

No title is a big problem. Even in states that exempt old vehicals from a lot of DMV hassiles, it will still take a major effort to get a new title. I'm not saying it can't be done, it most likely can, but it "DEFINITELY" drives the initial price down. He hasn't come up with a title yet 'cuzz he most likely doesn't have one. Buyer beware.

Value is what someone, you in this case, is willing to pay for it. Shop around this computer and u will learn the going prices. I paid $5500 for a '52 that was very original and virtually no rust anywhere. That's about the top price on the east coast for something that needs very little besides paint and a grand or two worth of parts to finish. Later found out the VIN was incorrect and ending up losing the block to the "MAN" cuzz the numbers were altered. Not a huge set back as I am hotrodding it anyway. Got new title but still a hassile. Live and learn is what I had to say to myself. It can be titled by either the Vin # on door plate or by the motor #. Different states did it differently

I paid $2,200 (way too much) for a truck that was 20 times better than that one and I still had to put hundreds of hours and $ into parts. I wish I had started out with a better truck, I would have saved a bundle. Though I can weld and work a dolly/hammer pretty well now.

If I had it to do over, it would have been more fun to start with a real good runner rather than waiting 5 years, excuse me, 6 years for a show truck. Though I was after a very specific looking truck.
1955 Napco conversion journey

Dan,

You are obviously getting a slew of mixed reviews. You would never be wasting your time with something like this. This is nothing compared to what I have seen or worked on or would be willing to work on. It seems like some of these guys are spoiled with what they want in a truck. Sure it would be nice to not have to do so much metal work but c'mon, what do you expect for a truck that is in the 50's. This should be expected, these were work trucks, not garage babies. There is a truck very similar to this here in pittsburgh for 2500. So it just depends on what it is worth to you and if you have gone down this road before. The $500 dollar comments are a little low IMO. I mean it has all the glass, which the windshield alone would be worth atleast $200. Try buying one of them new and see how much that would run you. I don't prefer stepsides, so I feel like that would be a flaw for me, maybe not others. NO title could be a hassle. I always assume a title to be worth atleast 300, because to transfer one and or get one would, and just the value of it when all said in done, would be about that. So overall, I would offer 700 and then work up to 1000 and no more than 1200. If it were me, but it is not it is you. So I think the 500 and 3,000 are too far off, somewhere in between that. good luck

There you go Dan, I totally agree with 99 to Life!! That truck would sell for 2500. up here all day long!!!! I could sell those bucket seats for 250. Me personally, I get charged up saving something like that out of the scrap yards. I recently saved a 63 impala that was headed to the crusher, got it running and sold it to a guy down the road from me, he loves it and drives it all over. I'm surrounded by BMWs and Lexus and big dollar SUVs up here and when an old truck or car pulls up to the stop lights, people are all thumbs up because you don't see old iron anymore! Well at least where I live. The title would be my only concern!! Check that out for sure!!!

Well, I finally got the guy to name a price and he quoted me $3000 and wouldn't budge. Plus he couldn't find the title. SO, this one is out. Too bad, because it will probably just sit there for another couple of years.
Anyway, I think I may have found another truck, but I don't dare say the brand on this site
But I will be brave... It's a 1948 Ford F3. Looks like it was pretty well stored with no rust rot anywhere. But this is a discussion for another forum I guess.
Thanks for all the input. Regardless of brand, you guys have made me a smarter shopper.

You are better off. $3k is outrageous and no title is ridiculous.

YEP! End of story!!

Titles are not a big deal if you know how to get around it. You can register an old vehicle in Vt. with only a bill of sale with all the correct information(as long as the numbers are Good). Once the vehicle is registered in your name, should be no problem re-registering and titling in Your State. You don't need to live in Vt. to register there. You will, however have to pay a Vt. sales tax (which can be deducted from Your State's Sales tax). Hope this helps somebody.

On the flip side of this discussion, I've been GIVEN pretty decent, running-condition trucks and cars just to get them off an owner's hands. I gave $100.00 for a running-shape 85 Silverado fleetside with a 305 engine, 700R4 trans, and factory air conditioning. All it needed was a valve job and a transmission overhaul, both of which I could do myself for nothing more than parts cost. My nephew owns it now, and has driven it from Nashville Tennessee to El Paso Texas and back twice recently.

I got a 1954 cab, frame and bed that was parked in a neighbor's barnyard for 20+ years just for the effort of hooking up my tractor and hauling it half a mile to my place. It still had a rear end, so I didn't have to rig a tow dolly under it or drag it onto a trailer. There are still freebies and/or bargains out there if you shop around. Just because it's old junk doesn't necessarily mean it has to be expensive junk.
Jerry