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But not really,

This is a continuation of this thread,
Which all started with 1958, 283 and Rochester 2G carb.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=698422#Post698422

I did get it to run for a second or 2, but no longer. I ensured that I was getting fuel and I am. I did notice that there was too much fuel, so I took the top off the carb and double checked the float measurements. Yes they were wrong so I changed them per the book.
The carb is the Rochester 2G. I am trying to understand why clearly it is firing, sufficiently to actually raise the temp of the exhaust pipe but will not stay running. I did rebuild the carb so I am assuming for the moment that the mistake is probably there. Any thoughts on what should be checked. I did the rebuild per the instructions that came with the kit and also per the shop manual.

I would check for a vac leak , will the engine run with the choke on ?If's there is a vac leak it will only run for a few seconds then the fuel runs out in the clys. and she'll die try the carb cleaner at the same time you're trying to start and see if you can keep it running than spray on the gaskit also the front and rear gaskit.

Pete

Same results with or with small amount of choke

I alone worked on it today. That is key because it is difficult to turn the ignition/starter switch and hold a spary can while holding the throttle and/or choke. But along with adjusting the timing a little it ran a bit longer maybe a second or two.

When I pour gas down the throat, a significant amount comes out the throttle body mounting plate intersection. The outside of the gasket gets wet and drips down on to the intake manifold. My understanding is this normal but I find that hard to believe. Does that seem correct to others?

Just so we are talking apples to apples again, Rochester 2G on 283

When you poor gas down the carb, it has to come out somewhere if the throttle blades are closed. The shaft is not sealed, it has bushing and if they are wore some it will leak. So gas running out of them is not that big of a deal since you are adding way more liquid then normal.

Go back to the timing and twist it some more, get it where it tries to kick back against the starter, they go back the other way a little, but not all the way to where you started.

If you are working by your self, hook up a push button switch to the starter and by leaving the key on run, you can started it standing outside by use of the button. One lead will hook to battery positive, the other goes to the starter solinoid "s" terminal.

Joe

A friend came over for an hour or so this morning. Double checked all my work and twisted the distributor while I ran the starter, he too, could hear it fire but we could not keep it running. He is coming back tomorrow for more. He checked the carb, saw no problems, checked the ignition and verified it was correct. No problems were found yet, but some thing is clearly lurking.

assuming you have an ignition resistor on it, by pass it next time you try to start it, appearing to start but dying as soon as you release the starter is exactly what a fried resistor would cause

Bill

Excellent suggestion, I am curious though, the resistor is only about 2 weeks old. I checked the resistance and it was like 3 ohms. I am only trying to understand, the resistor has been in constant contact with a cold garage floor, with the idea being that it would dissipate some of the heat to the floor. I am definitely going to try your suggestion because I think it is a good one, but what type of actions would kill the resistor?

The resistor is there to save your points from unnecessary arcing and subsequent wear. I think I would bypass the resistor completely until the engine is running, and only then worry about it. The short amount of time (5-10 minutes) you run without it won't hurt the points.

I have seen a large number of brand new ignition components fail, so keep every part suspect.

As far as why it is struggling: I always start by working through some method to get cylinder 1 near TDC, and checking the position of the distributer rotor with the number one plug wire. If these two reasonably match up, you know your timing will be close. Check to ensure that you still have spark. As already stated, look for vacuum leaks and spray something flammable around mating surfaces to find them. If you have fuel, air, and spark, then don't overlook a compression check.

Good luck,
Doug

That's the entertaining thing about this, everything you mention has been done, except, removing the resistor.

Everything, all my work has been verified by a knowledgeable mechanic, including the rebuild of the carb, and this person sprayed the carb cleaner while I started it, no vacuum leaks were detected.

All set, the resistor was of high quality Chinese design. It was not an open it was the wrong value, think current limiting and excessive voltage drop. Once removed ran fine. Thanks for everyone's help.

so it's likely been the problem all along just make sure you replace the resistor and mount it properly on the firewall, the ceramic dissipates the heat ... that is if you do not have an internally resisted coil, I'd think if you had a resistor "the wrong value" it's because the coil doesn't require one at all

Bill

At least now you know everything you did was right! Glad you got it figured out.

Joe