The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop can I use this engine

Ok lets start from the top I have a 1971 c10 302 fleetside pick up that ran all year. Until I threw a rod I took it apart and found the engine is junk and
a friend found a 1986 pickup with and 350 in it that
runs but smokes until it warms up I dont care about the smoke I can pull it and use the block and anthing else I can and that brings me to the ??? can I use the engine or did I waste 75.00 bucks im hoping that I can without going through to many changes but to give the gurus in the thread a little more info here are the vin's if this helps ce134s110015 - 1971
and 1gcdr14h9hj102156

I don't know what you mean by the 302 thing. If your truck has a small block V8 though, the newer 350 will be a direct swap.

Keep your old front accesories like pulleys, water pump, and brackets.

That's the main difference between the two different eras of engines. The earlier one is known as a short water pump, the later a long water pump.

All of the parts will interchange onto the later engine without any modifications.

sorry I meant the engine size 305 thanx for the info any suggestions on how to use the electronics for the carb or am I best off using the 4bbl carb without all the electrical stuff

also can I use the tranny that came with it

Yes, you can use the transmission, unless it's one of the electronic-controlled lockup converter models. Even then, you just wouldn't be able to use the lockup clutch without a little wiring and a control switch. The electronic carburetor needs a computer, and several other items, so keep the older carb unless you're willing to do a lot of rewiring!
Jerry

thanx will keep on truckin

A '71 Chevy didn't have a 302 or 305 from the factory. Could it be a 307?

The 350 should be an easy swap into the '71 regardless of what was in there, but the exact details might change if someone had already replaced the motor with something non-original.

You haven't mentioned what transmission it has (other than automatic.) If it's a TH350 or TH400 (three speed trannies) they should bolt in and run just fine....you may have to mess with the tranny crossmember a little bit.

If it's a TH700R4, then you may want to find a way of dealing with the locking torque converter, although I've never had any problems with running 700s or TH200-4Rs with the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid disconnected.

I don't think it would be a 4L60E or a 4L80E...which require computer control. But ya never know. In 86, most passenger cars weren't using the computerized trannies.

The 86 motor will most likely be a center-bolt valve cover/one-piece rear main seal motor...but aside from those items, everything else should be the same.

If the carb is a CCC Q-jet (it'll have several electrical connectors other than the choke if it is) then I'd suggest using your old carb and possibly manifold. I dunno if you've got a 2-bbl carb now and putting on a 4-bbl or what...but the CCC carb (if used) won't work in a non-computerized application. But if worst comes to worst, get an Edelbrock 2101 manifold and 1406 carb and don't worry about it.

The last thing is the distributor. Same deal as the carb. If there's no vacuum advance can, then it's a CCC distributor and you prolly otta use your old one, since you won't have any way of controlling spark advance in part-throttle conditions.

All this info is based on passenger car info, not trucks...so things might be slightly different. But the basics should be the same.

hth,

well I havnt pulled it from its old shell yet to verify the 350 status yet and im not sure what tranny I have in it yet is there a way to tell by looking at the tranny or even the vin sorry about all the ??? Im just axious to get started but the rain and snow wont let up so I can get going

While this page is on an Oldsmobile site, it has good information about identifying transmissions:
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oftrn.htm

As far as decoding the engine casting and stamping codes, I made a page to address that issue a while back:
http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/decode.html

Now: Go get the engine casting and stamping numbers (write them down) and draw a diagram of the tranny pan shape. Look for an electrical connector on the driver's side of the tranny.

Then check the pages mentioned above and you should have your answers. If not, post the numbers here or the info about the tranny (looking at the gear indicator on the dash can tell you if it's an overdrive trans or not) and we can give you more info. But you gotta go get the data first.

In 85, you could have a Turbo 350-C, which has a lockup converter. There will be an electrical connector in the transmission case, and if you remove the pan, there will be a couple of wires connected to pressure switches on the valve body. With the torque converter removed, the input shaft will be hollow, with an O-ring near the front, and a steel check ball in the hollow shaft. It needs a vacuum switch connected to the ignition switch and manifold vacuum to supply voltage to the tranny under light throttle. When the governor pressure switch and the vacuum switch are in the closed position, the converter will lock in. If either speed or vacuum drops, the lockup clutch disconnects. Later model 350-C transmissions used the vehicle's engine control computer to apply the lockup clutch.
Jerry