The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop engine will not start

I just bought a 1955 1st series. It is stock with the 235 and 3 speed. The previous owner had the truck for 4 years and never got the engine started. Lots of unknowns. My short term goal is to get the motor running. I am in the process of getting the engine running. I put penetrating oil in the spark plug holes a couple times and poured some oil on the valves.

I removed the fuel tank, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Cleaned out the fuel lines, changed the fuel filter and rebuilt the carb. Installed a new battery and cables. Installed a newcoil, condenser, points and plugs. Set the timeing using the TDC method. I am getting spark at the plugs. The rotor points at number #1 and rotates as the motor turns over. I am getting gas to the carb. The motor does not start. Does not even cough. Can not push or tow the truck using compression to start as the tranny is not installed. There also is no brakes. Wanted to get the motor started before I fix the brakes and tranny. You guys have any suggestions?

First I would make sure that the spark is going all the way to the plugs. Lay a plug out on top and connect a plug wire to it. then turn it over and check that it is getting a spark.

Next, check to make sure that the #1 TDC is on the power stroke and not the intake stroke. With the valve cover off, there should be play in both rockers for #1 when it is at TDC. #6 will have play on only one valve rocker. I would alo static time it for the small triangle marked UDC that follows the ball by 5 deg.

Third thing for quick results is to dump a few ounces of gas down the carb throat and then try it. I would not be priming with it turning over because of the danger of fire.

Yep, the spark should be good & strong. Also a compression check should be on your list of things to do as well. Just a hunch but I've a sneaking suspicion the valve lash is set too tight & the valves aren't closing fully.

Houston we have a problem. Just did a compression test. There is no compression on all the cylinders. Planning to pull the engine for a full investigation.

Check the valve lash first. They are supposed to be set hot but setting them cold will allow the engine to fire and warm up for the final setting.

Sometimes people will set valves according to the hydraulic lifter routine and that will leave the valves open. I agree, check the lash and you may be surprised.

I will check the valve adjustment. Let me get this straight. If the valves are out of adjustment, its possible there would be no compression?
thanks guys

If the valves are not too tight you can check the valve timing while the valve cover is removed.
These engines will occasionally strip some teeth from the timing gear and let the cam get out of time and will result in a low or no compression situation.
Easy enough to check with the valve cover off.
1) plugs out for easy engine turning by hand
2) valves on #1 cyl should be near proper clearance
3) align the timing marks to top center
4) if both valves on #1 are closed rotate the crankshaft 1
revolution at which time when the timing marks align the
valves should be open equal amounts (the exhaust is nearly
closed and the inlet is just barely off its seat and
opening)
At this time if the crankshaft is turned BACK AND FORTH
15 degrees or so the equal opening at top center will be
very noticable IF the cam is still in correct time.
Good luck

This is an awesome thread. Constantly amazed at the knowledge base here.

Yes. If they are far enough too tight the valve will never fully close leaving an escape path for the fuel/air mixture. An escape path in the combustion chamber means no compression.

does it make any funny sounds when it turns over? I'm just thinking, what did someone do before you? most extreme case, someone took the pistons out to re-ring and never put them back. that will give you zero compression for sure.
If I were you I'd pull the head. not too much work and in my opinion you should check what's hiding there. same goes for the oil pan. definitely wouldn't hurt to have a look at the crank, cam, and also what is in the bottom of oil pan (pieces of metal maybe?)

Just got back from looking at at a 1960 chevy truck with a 235 engine. I was able to start the engine and let it run till it warmed up. No smoke or blowby. It really sounded great. Plan to run compression check. He wants $200 for the engine and transmission and all the stuff. I'm going to use the '60 engine in my '55. I'll change out my truck to 12 volt and install a solid engine that runs. I'm thinking I could easily put $200 into my existing engine. Besides I'll have lots of extra parts. I want to thank you guys for all the advise on my existing situation.

Make sure your truck wasn't titled using the engine number as the VIN on the title. If it was and you change engines you'll need to re-title.

Idaho is pretty easy to work with on titles. I wouldn't let that deter you from putting a new engine in if you can get it for only $200.

My truck is titled using the vin number from the door jam. No reference to the engine number on the title. At least that will not be a problem. Have not yet consummated the buy for the '60 engine. When I bought this truck, I believed the engine would run. I woke up this morning with idea of trying to start my engine one more time. I reached down and grabbed the distributor and check for the backlash. There is backlash but the distributor moved easily. The bolt holding the distributor is not tight. Probably has been the issue all along. More later.

I took another look at the 235 engine in the '60 chevy truck. It runs really good and strong. Let it warm up for 10 minutes. Pulled the plugs and ran a compression test. The compression was between 90 and 94 lbs per cylinder. It'll work for a driver in my truck. I'll pull the engine and bring it home. Plan to clean up the engine and detail it prior to installing into my '55 chevy truck. I also will convert my truck to 12 volt.