The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Paint or Powder Coat, and Rivets?

Finished blowing the truck apart this weekend, down to a bare frame. Now is decision time on paint or powder coat.

Before I sand blast it all I need to replace the battery box and a few of the running board supports.

My thinking is,
1.remove battery box and running board spports that will be replaced
2.sand blast
3.install new battery box and running board supports
4(1). prime with POR-15 or similar product then paint
or
4(2). powder coat

as far as durability, which is better? I want a good look but I also want it to last a LONG time.

also, when reattaching the battery box and such, I wanna use riviets to keep it original looking. anybody messed with these large riviets? forming them and what not, tips/tricks?

If you're going to sandblast your frame there is no need for POR because you are not Painting Over Rust which is what POR stands for. Just lay down a good coat of etch primer and top coat with a 2K urethane.

Sandblasting does not remove all rust. There is rust between all the touching components so unless you completely strip your frame down to its individual components you still have rust. However, rust needs moisture and oxygen to grow, deprive it of either and your rust will remain dormant. No rust treatment chemical penetrates beyond just below the surface of rust.

Paint your battery box and running board hangers before assembly.

Unless you have industrial tooling you will never be able to set steel rivets that large. There were squeezed at the factory and if you tried setting them with a rivet gun or air hammer you will quickly find that it takes a LOT more force to set a steel rivet than you ever imagined... and you will probably go deaf in the process.

I have some 1/8" steel rivets that I'll be happy to send you to illustrate my point.

An aesthetic option would be to use a machine screw and fill the screwdriver slot with filler so it looks like a rivet, but that only works on one side.

SO how are you guys getting POR or paint or even chemical treatment behind the running board hangers without removing them. that gap is very small.

[IMG]http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo216/texaslocogringo/runningboardhanger.png[/IMG]

I understand the idea of covering the intire frame with a uniform primer/paint and that sealing the rust off from oxygen or moisture. but what about these little areas where you cant even blast it, much less get paint on it.

thanks a bunch
-LGringo

You've discovered a dirty little secret, most guys don't.

Look at it this way... the frame on your truck was assembled 50+ years ago and has survived quite well all these years with no rust proofing except maybe some overspray so why the big concern now? The process needed to remove every speck of rust from every square inch of your frame, and then paint and re-assemble it is beyond our abilities and everything else is an unavoidable compromise. The goal now should be to clean it up as best you can, get a good coat of paint on it and enjoy your truck.

Have you considered chemical dipping? I'm not sure what they can do for rust proofing but I do know the process can remove anything it touches. Perhaps they have a dipping process to coat the part with a rust preventative???

Nothing is perfect despite what you may read here or anywhere else on the internet.

Ya after pondering this question for about a week now I've decided there is no way to do it, unless a dip like you mentioned.

This is my first restoration, other stuff has just been custom builds, and I always want to be a perfect as possible. If/When I ever sell this thing I want it to be very nice.

But like I said, first resto so it is a learning experience.

Also, just want to say thanks to everyone on here, been searching around on everything too, I'v got a bunch info just from yalls old posts.

And sorry in advanced for any Newbie questions or comments.

-LGringo

locogringo, you will find that hardly anyone will appreciate the "perfection" with which we do things EXCEPT you. Most folks looking at vehicles don't have a clue, those that do appreciate your work and KNOW what has or has not been done. I've done chassis both ways. Prime/paint and also POR15. I like the POR15 for its toughness. Where there are places you can't really get to I try to be liberal with the POR15. As Woody states deprive the rust of air and moisture and your good to go. Since we can't 100% do that I try to "slop it in/on" to seal places as much as I can. These places will likely never be seen again for years and years. By then we will be long gone and the next guy who takes it apart won't care....they may say "whoever did this did a good job" but won't be around to hear it.

Best advice I've ever received is just to "use good common sense"

Don't worry about your questions. Newbies learn from those who have already "been there" and then the newbies become oldies and past it on later to other newbies. Its perpetual education for truck folks.

Well said and my sentiments exactly

This is a great source:

Frame rivets

frame rivets,

I was going to try Carriage bolts to replicate the look on the outside of frame, but couldn't find ones in a grade strong enough (they just snapped) looked good though

I had my doors dipped and they did a great job. Later when I was replacing part of the skin, underneath the edge wrap around i found rust that the solution couldn't get in to.

I think the carrage bolt idea may work for your battery holder. They do look alot like a rivet.

Sandblast, or dip, then hit everything with epoxy.

Let's try this again... use Round Head machine screws like THESE and just fill in the slot with filler. It will look just like a rivet.

You can use a socket head and get them in black then all you need to do is fill small hole and you can get them tighter than screws too.
62Blue
Don

SO christmas brake is coming up and I want to get this frame done. I've got my replacment parts coming in today so i should be ready as far as parts go.

My friend has a huge sandblaster that we will use to clean the frame. then a short trailer ride to the shop for paint.

this is where i need help now.

first step is to get a coat of etch primer on. then a couple coats of paint.

what paint or type of paint is the best for frames, tough and durable.


whats the pros and cons ?

1. 2k urethane

2. epoxy

3. agriculture enamel

4. something i dont know about?

Thanks guys
-LGringo

True until you add a nut and washer and then you can crank the nut as tight as a bolt.

I don't think you can use etch primer under epoxy. Just go straight to epoxy. Then you can add a top coat within the window of the epoxy. If out of the window, then you need to sand it.

as far as brand names to go with on guns and filters what does everyone think of Devilbiss? they are priced decent, is Devilbiss a good quality brand?

after some searching and pricing I like this kit, around $150

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=416

as for a filter, devilbiss has these that seem to be comprable to the other brands

$230

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=412

$175

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=429

$232

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=96

$400

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products.php?pg=413

dont think I need the 5 stage filter. lol

I was leaning towards the $230 2-stage
or the $175 desiccant

and then also have a disposable filter at the gun

any thoughts?

thanks a bunch guys
-LGringo

Although not on your list, I bought THIS set and it's been great except for one thing... the 1.8 tip is too big but the kit comes with a 1.5 tip and it seems perfect for high-fill primer. The set you are looking at doesn't come with a 1.5 tip.

I bought my HVLP touch-up gun at Harbor Freight and give it two thumbs up. I've sprayed my entire interior with it and am very pleased with it... my painting stinks but that's not the gun's fault.

locogringo, I disagree with those who say don't use rivets. There are very few things in life that I'm certain about but this is one of them. You CAN form heads on frame rivets without any special tools. I know because I did it on my '36 Chevy pickup. I didn't invent this method, I was taught by old timers who actually had used it in construction.

The trick is to "buck" (back up) the rivet with a heavy piece of metal ("bucking" bar) with a drilled or end milled dimple to fit over the end of the rivet with a head on it. Then, patiently tap around the end of the rivet you are forming the head on. Slamming it hard with a heavy hammer splits the metal. Tapping gently around and around forms a nice head with a stock looking appearance.

The advantage of rivets over bolts in a vehicle frame is that forming the rivet head also causes the shank of the rivet to swell to fill the holes completely. That is why they are a very snug fit and have to be driven out to be removed.

Again, I know because I did it when I restored my '36 in the early 70's. If you'd like to see pictures, email me at [email protected].