The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine rebuild-What would a general cost ...?

I was told to have my 216, fixed free of any problems which pretty much everything is worn but there are not cracks or broken items, that would cost approximately $3000, depending on the time, $2000 for sure. He'll need to send some parts to get fixed since he is unable to fix them. Being on the west coast is not to my advantage. If any of you have had your engine needed complete repairs what did it cost roughly? And do you think this price is average or too much? Just making sure before I give the OK. Thanks

That sounds about average from what I've heard and read. Any reason you dont go with a newer 235? You could probably find a used one reasonable and rebuild costs would be comparable.

Some people still believe in ORIGINALITY "Thank Goodness", prices are realistic.

Well, might as well keep the original motor that still ran just needs a tune up. If I didn't have a motor, I would look into getting a newer one. But I like the old 216 how it purs, but everyone has their own opinion. I just wanted to make sure that this is a regular cost in getting one fixed up, I understand that it costs a pretty penny, it is about seventy two years old! Well, thanks for the help, I'll give the guy a OK and we'll go from there!

Had my 216 rebuilt last year for $2800. 3000 sounds about right.

Charlie

Keep your 216. I swapped mine out for a 235 and if I had it to do over I'd just keep the 216. All the hoopla about babbit bearings and splash oiling doesn't amount to a hill of beans in the real world.

Hey Woody, You going to the car fest this weekend at the fair grounds?

Melvin

I'd spend the money on a 235 at least and preferably a 261.
My 52 truck already had a later 235, I found another and rebuilt it for about $2000 in parts and machine work, plus all my labor to reassemble. A couple years alter I found out about the 261, and really wished at the time I'd been told or had learned about that option.

Unless you want a perfectly restored truck I can't see any reason not to update to at least a 235. If looks bother you a little then use a 216 valvecover, the vast majority of folks looking under the hood don't know the difference any how, and those that do most of them don't care if it's the "original" engine or a slightly newer one.

But honestly I'd say none of the above, Diesel is more fun and that low mile 235 in my 1 ton is coming out for a 3 cylinder turbocharged Detroit to go in..

Grigg

Czechman - explain - why would you've kept the 216? I'm in the same position right now, and have a 216 that drinks as much gas as it does oil when it runs. I called the local shop, he basically respouted all the same anti-216 facts I'v read here. Higher cost to rebuild being the biggest factor.

So curious, why would you go the 216 route if you could turn back time?

I'm also curious to hear the explanation, and want to know how many miles you put on the truck, and assuming you did keep the 216 how often you think you would have to deal with adjusting bearings, or is it necessary?

Grigg

All the hoopla about babbit bearings and splash oiling doesn't amount to a hill of beans in the real world.

Thanks - that explains why GM kept that system, right?

My engine (a 235, but I think for comparison this should be pretty close) is at the machine shop right now. The block is getting boiled, the head magnafluxed and the valves reseated. I'm replacing the cam, the timing gears, having the cylinders honed with new rings and new lifters. I'm also replacing the water pump, putting electronic ignition with new cap, wires and plugs. I'm also adding an alternator and electric fuel pump. Cost of parts and machining - right about $1500. I imagine the labor would double that if my brother wasn't doing (or supervising me as the case may be) all the work on it (except the machining). By the way, we struck a deal with the machine shop to get the work done a bit cheaper by having them do all the machine work and buying all parts from them. This way the same guy's doing everything and if something goes wrong we know where to go. Hope that helps.

In short, $3000 is no where near unreasonable. If you're going to bore it out, replace pistons, valves, rockers, etc, etc, etc.... I suppose it could cost much more.

Well, I'd keep it because first it is the same engine that they put into it in the factory line, and second it runs.

I don't plan on putting a ton of miles on it, maybe tops three hundred per year if that. I'll be keeping indoors as much as possible during winter time and keep it in the best of shape I can since I'm keeping it the rest of my life (plan to).

I'm not going completely crazy on originality, having everything original, but I would like to keep the basic stuff original.

Anyhow, I appreciate all the help so far, it is helping me know that it is normal as far as engine repairs.

I think, from what I've read, the 235 is similar, just newer. The machinist here in Nevada told me that nothing is broken or craked, just normal wear that is fixable. The engine started and ran fine, but I wanted to have him go through it so that I won't need to take it out hopefully for the next few years.

Thank you for the help!

Rebuilding the ’53 235 in my ’41 cost $1,918.08. That included a new head, new valves, new guides and hardened seats. All by the machine shop. Also the block was bored 0.030 over, the crank ground 0.010 under, the cam reground to the original profile, new cam bearings installed, lifters resurfaced, new fiber timing gear installed, freeze plugs installed. All of this by the machine shop. I did all the engine removal, disassembly, reassembly (cam, crank, rods, new pistons, new rocker shafts, etc) and installation back into the truck

This sounds like you got a great deal! 10 years ago it cost me $2k for about the same work on a 235.

Yes I thought it was not too bad. It would have been $200 less if my '53 head was not cracked in 6 places.

Chuck's engine repair in the Detroit area did the machining. Bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc from Patrick. Rocker shafts from Egge and Mizpah ground the lifters

My 235 was redone in june 2006 at a cost of $2200.00 with a harden seat kit.