| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (Peggy M, Donf, Otto Skorzeny, Wickedbass, Hawkman, NJC, GRNHydra, hdgeren),
83
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,023 Posts1,055,370 Members48,420 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 | I have several broken wheel studs on my '48 rear axle, and have tried hammering with a large hammer, and drilling a hole thru the center, no luck. Is it safe to heat the flange somewhat to help drive these studs out? Understand that too much heat may damage axle seal. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Usually they are not that difficult to remove. I use a nut in place and a big heavy hammer to place a slow blow. If you have to resort to drilling, you may want to heat the stud a bit and let it cool naturally. That may soften it up a little. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I'd try and fit a block of wood between the back side of the axle and the flange that the backing plate bolts to. I will make things a bit more firm while your pounding the stud out. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | The above techniques usually work but I was not able safely remove the studs by hammering. If you have a study C (or D) clamp you might be able to rig a device like this. This can also be used to safely install the new studs. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 | They may not usually be this tough, but these are not moving!! Drilled out all but about 1/16" and still will not hammer out. May have to drill the entire stud material out. Had to really hit the front drum studs hard with a BIG hammer to get them out!!
Plan B...I have another '48 third member complete, with good studs all around. How hard is it to pull axles out of this rear end and replace the ones in my truck? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | You neglected to say they were the rear studs. Ir is easier to pull the axle and work on a bench vice. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | Get one of these[a ball joint remover/installer]. I just bought one for $25. Works great for many things on these old trucks.
Bruce
Last edited by cletis; 11/01/2010 11:54 PM. Reason: removed Ebay link
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 | gazim Is it a difficult procedure to pull these axles? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | No.
The instructions in the Shop Manual are clear and fairly easy to follow.
| | |
| |
| |