The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 2g carb

I think I have something cloged in my 61 283 2g carb. I am thinking this because I am getting alot of fine dust (probably rust from my not very old tank) in my filter and its running a little worse every time I fire it up. it cranks right up and idles fine but under any kind of load it will spit or just bog right out. I added another filter and I want to pull the carb. Where should I be looking? I have had this carb off before and I have never found anything in it but I know the rust problem has been around for a while. I can never seem to get this thing to run perfect. it is always a little off and then gets worse over time. It has to be the carb. I have been over and over everything else. I am planning to replace or seal the tank its just a little further down on the list. I think the larger added filter will get me through for a while.

You might want to change your filter not add another one.If your filter is clogged that restricts the fuel flow to the carb .Idling will be fine until the demand for more fuel is required.
The fuel tank sounds like its your problem I would fix that then if your problem persists check the carb .
The fuel tank sealer from EastWood is not recommended for for gasoline with ethanol .I would'nt suggest using it since almost all fuel today has it.I found that "POR15 TANK SEALER" is compatible with ethanol fuel.

The filter is new. just a larger one. its a clear filter so I can see that it is not running our of fuel.

Install a pressure gauge right at the carb inlet and go for a drive. You will know if the tank outlet is plugged.

As for cleaning the carb, if you don't soak it in a good cleaner, you may never get it to run, sometimes that the only thing that will really get them clean inside. If you don't have a soak tank or tub, spray lots of cleaner in every hole you can find on the base and center section. Run some small wires down each hole if you are not sure about them. Check the air bleed tubes and mixture tubes, make sure they are all open. Be sure the float is set correctly or even a little high, which will richen up the mixture a bit. Don't hold back on the cleaner, more is better in this case.

Joe

I have had this issue before and removed the strainer on the fuel sender pick-up tube. With a good inline filter, the strainer is not necessary. Under load, when the fuel pump is sucking fuel from the tank and the fuel is agitated, the solids are gravitating to the strainer, thus limiting flow. As the fuel settles down, the solids drop off and unimpeded fuel fuel flow is restored. I suggest installing the see-thru, glass-style inline fuel filter, since the filter can be cleaned, as necessary.

I have the carb out now and I don't see a problem. Nothing is clogged and it looks pretty clean. I cannot get the power meter out though. I seams like someone lock tighted it in there. I am going to spray it down real good and put it back together

I got it back together and running. I made a small adjustment to the accelorator pump rod. other than that, I put everything back to the same settings. when I fired it up the problem was worse. I adjusted the air/idle screw and it runs pretty good but still has the same problem just not to bad right now. As I said, its getting plenty of fuel and the carb was clean. I looked everything over with a magnifing glass. the only thing I noticed is that it looks like one jet is a 51 and the other is a 50. the 51 is clearly marked but the 50 is worn or not stamped deap enough but it is not a 51. I don't know if that would cause a problem or not. I did get a pop back through the carb when I first fired it up and it was dark in the garage so I could see a fire flash in the intake. I have the timing set a 10 deg but I advanced it a little more. I dont have the kind of light that you can check the advance with. I have had this problem to some degree since I bought the truck and I have swapped distributors and changed out the timing chain and it still comes back which always leads me back to the carb which was replaced before I bought the truck and I have since rebuilt it once.

Have you checked/changed the sintered bronze strainer under the big fuel inlet nut? They have a habit of clogging up and causing the symptoms you're describing. Your inline filter might noit be trapping all the sediment.
Jerry

yes. mine has a small plastic filter in place of the bronze so I cleaned that and I also tried it without that in and it ran the same

Your main jets are too lean. Often these rebuilders mix up parts & you wind up with a mismatch. You should have 54-55 jet's in that carb especially in the low altitude of Florida. Make sure the float level is correct & you can try raising it 2/32.

I have the float set within 1/64 at the most. My plugs are black and it runs the best when I have my air/idle screw almost all the way in. I was thinking it was to rich but maybe I am missreading the plugs. It may be oil on them. I will order some new jets and see what that does.

Does anyone know where I can get jets? I had found them once online but they where expensive and I can't find them now. Also what is the best way to check for a vacuum leak on the intake. I wan't to check that and do a compresion test. If all turns out well, I may scrap the carb and get a new one.

I'll look tomorrow. I may have a pair.

I have a pair of .055 jet's. Send me an address & i'll mail them to you. You can make a contribution to the Stovebolt website if you want.
[email protected]

Thanks George. The jets came today and I will get them in by thursday. I did pick up a large base 2g that was said to be running great on a 350 until it was swapped out for a 4 barrel a couple of weeks ago. I was thinking of making an adaptor to mount it up. I plan to taper the holes down so it is a smooth flow and put a vacuum hole through the side for my vacuum advance. Any thoughts.

I put the new jets in today and it made a difference but it seams worse. I think I may have fouled a plug or two so I have to clean them and try it again. Instead of popping through the carb its backfiring. I am going to clean the plugs and try it again tomorrow. If I don't get improvement I am going to pull the carb again and make my adaptor for the large base.

Are you aware that there is more than 1 circuit in that carburetor, and changing the main jet may be unrelated to the problem?
When is it rich, by RPM? By throttle position? By temperature? By vacuum?

I think it is rich because it runs the best when the mixture screws are bottomed out. The float is correct. I cannot get the power valve out. I don't know if that has anything to do with the problem but its in there good and tight. I believe this to be a chinesse reman so I am starting to think it a core that shouldn't have been rebuilt.

I suspect your power valve is stuck open, which means changing the main jet didn't do anything.

what does the power valve do? the piece in the center moves up and down but maybe not right. There wasn't one in my rebuild kit so I don't know what it looks like below the bowl.

ok, i cleaned the plugs # 2 & 6 were black and wet like they weren't firing. the rest were black powder which tells me rich right. the only difference now is that it will backfire even just holding the throttle steady. it runs pretty good at idle with the mixture srews bottomeed out. Is the backfiring because I changed the jets out?