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| | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | Today I was pricing paint for my engine. I used the PPG code 34560 I got from Tim's page. They quoted me $90 a quart for the good stuff and $25 for the cheap stuff. My question is, should I get the good stuff or will the cheap stuff last on an engine? What about hardner, do or should I use it?
Bruce
Last edited by 55 1st suburban; 10/20/2010 2:16 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Why not just get a pint? It certainly won't take anywhere near that much to paint an engine. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | The cheap stuff you are refering to is probably Omni? That's even cheap for a quart of Omni. Omni doesn't cover anywhere near as well as the DBU does. It seems like the better paints have more pigment in them.
DG
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | I've never done more than a rattle can in the past and I'm just begining to get experiment with the auto painting thing. Is a pint really enough to paint the whole engine and bell housing? What about the hardner, do I need it?
Bruce | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |
What line of PPG paint are you referring to (when you refer to adding a hardener)?
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 486 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 486 | One of my how-to books says that if you're planning to use the vehicle as a driver, use the cheapest paint you can get because the good stuff doesn't last much longer on an engine that's being used. I haven't followed that advice myself though. I bought high-temp engine paint.
'64 swb stepside (gone)
'57 1 ton
'53 phone truck
'59 swb
'46 1 1/2 ton
'68 swb gmc
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 169 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 169 | Willing to bet they quoted you single stage urethane DCC (high end) and the cheap stuff is AE or acrylic enamel (Omni).
Yes you need the hardener unless you dont want the paint to cure. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |
You should use a hardener in an acrylic enamel (not the urethane, which is a two-part paint and has a catalyst).
I think a pint would do your engine and clutch housing.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Is a pint really enough to paint the whole engine and bell housing? What about the hardner, do I need it? Bruce A pint, once reduced per instructions, is enough to cover your engine and bell housing and probably your entire driveline. Yes, you will need reducer and hardener. Your paint dealer will set you up. TIP: If you plan to paint your truck you should use the same brand paint for everything and save money on reducers and hardeners. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | [/quote]
TIP: If you plan to paint your truck you should use the same brand paint for everything and save money on reducers and hardeners. [/quote]
Good advice!!
Bruce
Last edited by 55 1st suburban; 10/21/2010 1:46 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Another Bolter benefits from my mistakes (: | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 272 | Czechman, you have so many good tips that I have had you on the watch list for 2 years....keep up the GOOD work
Brad | | |
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