The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Bellhousing removal on "Froze" Motor

OK, First of all, thanks to all the advice so far. I was able to pull the motor and remove the tranny - two things I've never done before so I feel pretty good about that (I found a squirrels nest in the flywheel pan, I thought at first it was a mouse nest but underneath the fluff was a whole bunch of acorns!).

My brother owns his own shop and says he'll take my 235 and look it over (and fix it if it needs anything). But he's kind of busy so he said to bring the motor, the starter and the flywheel from the 216. I'm assuming that means the whole bellhousing with the flywheel and clutch all still together. My 216 has been froze for years and for two of them I have been trying to "unfreeze" it by soaking the cylinders, rocking the motor with a breaker bar, etc.... I haven't pulled the head yet or anything like that but I've broke a good bar by using to much force to try and turn the front crank.

How do I get this bell housing off? There are two bolts (cap screws - thanks guys) at the top of the housing. I see two bolts inside the housing between the flywheel and the motor which have about 1/4" space between the head of the bolt and the flywheel (haven't a clue how to break these loose, I can just barely get a wrench on them and then there's so little wrench to hold I couldn't get enough force on it to break it loose). Then I see two bolts from underneath that look like they are holding a "collar" around the bottom side of the shaft or whatever goes from the flywheel to the motor. Am I getting close? Do I need to be able to turn this motor to do this? From what the book says I think I have to remove the clutch from the flywheel first but without being able to turn it I'm not sure how I'd do that. Any help would be appreciated. The book just doesn't seem to be too clear on this.

You could always try removing the crankshaft by taking the oil pan off and unbolting the rod and main bearing caps. The flywheel is bolted to the back of the crankshaft, so it's got to be removed beforte the bellhousing comes off. Those bolts are under the clutch. It would be a little tricky getting the snout of the crank out of the front plate, since the timing gear and camshaft will restrict things a litle. Once you get some slack created by loosening and/or removing bearing caps, it will probably be a little easier to unbolt the clutch and flywheel. One way or another, the pressure plate and the flywheel are going to have to be removed. I believe there's an inspection plate at the top of the bellhousing that might let you get to a couple of pressure plate bolts, if the engine is turned just right.
Jerry

If you don't care about the clutch and pressure plate cut the centers from both with a torch and remove the fly wheel bolts. If you do this leave all the bolts in the pressure plate so nothing goes flying loose. If you can't bring yourself to do this just toss the hole mess bell housings and fly wheels are a dime a dozen.

do I have this right? if I can move the crank I can do this. So if I tried to free it up by removing the head and knocking the pistons loose that would help? Or even if I took the oil pan off, disconnected the piston rods/caps and got it to move that way I'd still be ok right?

I don't care about this motor at all - and I'm sure I could find another bell-housing and flywheel and that, but I'm on a budget so if I can use mine I'd like to.

Maybe I should try to free this motor up even if I break it a little?

yup... Pull the head and start banging on those pistons with a big hammer and a 2X4. The pressure plate is held on with either 6 or 9 bolts, and the engine needs to spin to get them all off.

so assuming i can get it moving, once the pressure plate comes off (and down to get out) it will make the bolts visible to remove the flywheel. Once that's off - then I will be able to get to the bolts that hold the bell-housing on.

Sounds like that's my next project - to finally free this thing up one way or another.

Question though, the book talks about a "clutch pilot tool K-411" to support the clutch assembly during removal. What could I use in place of that? (I used the carriage bolts with the heads cut off for the transmission guide pins thanks to someone on this site). Is there anything I could use, or do I really need one? Just wondering.

There are 4-bolts behind the flywheel that you have to remove and don't worry about the clutch tool until you are ready to re-install. The method of removing the bearing caps will get you where you need to go without torching anything. Drop out the pressure plate and disc, once they are out you can remove the 6-flywheel bolts/keepers this can be tricky on a free turning motor which you will now have since they are tight so you may need to hold the crank/flywheel while loosening them. Once they are out you will see the 4-bolts holding the housing to the back of the motor.

I have removed the clutch plate with knuckles, extensions and a variety of sockets. then the flywheel. You can get the bell housing then.

I took the head off tonight (it was pretty easy since its out of the truck). I figured I'd see if I could free the pistons from the top since its easy to get to. Two of the cylinders still have fluid in them (and some really nasty floating "stuff") so I'm guessing those are the two worst ones. We'll see if I can knock them loose. If not, I'll have to pick the thing up again and go from the bottom. Thanks - I'll let you all know.

Im in the prosess of doing the same thing now also. We are both about at the same point, so far I have # 1 and # 3 freed up. Been oiling and tapping with a hammer every day. All I want to do is put this on my engine stand so I can put it aside till im ready to get into the engine. It is time consuming, but it's getting there.

My partner at his salvage lot pulls the pan & wacks the crank right behind the rear main.

I may have to try that. I've had oil on these things for ever. Tonight I even cleaned all the rust off and scraped the top clean next to the cylinder wall. I took a 2x3 (cut a 2x4) and hit every cylinder with a sledge hammer until my arm hurt (remember, I really don't care about this motor). I only used one arm but I was hitting it pretty good. I guess the oil pan is coming off this week/weekend.

If you cut it and have the trouble with the flywheel spinning once clutch is removed I made these to hold the flywheel while I work it is simple, safe and works great.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2257528360102454676zxeIoi
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2167814010102454676tqaUSz

Make a piece of oak that will slide down on top of your pist on . Get a hydralic jack put it ontop of the oak . Wrap a chain around your moter and on top of the jack. Jack the jack against the chain and push the oak and piston down. It's kinda like puting your moter ina press. good luck

I'm not sure just what you are trying to salvage and what you want to trash. The easy way to remove a clutch and flywheel housing on a stuck motor is to remove oil pan, all of the rod bolts and the main cap screws. The crank along with the flywheel and clutch will lift right out. I would then try beating on the pistons again. Quite often when there is no crank, they will move.

He would have to cut a slot in the front plate, or remove the cam and unbolt the front plate to get the crank to lift out. He can get the flywheel end to lift out enough to maybe turn the crank and unbolt the clutch that way.
Jerry

On a GMC, you have enough wiggle room to remove the clutch and flywheel without removing the front cover. I would guess a Chev to be the same.

I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried pressing the pistons down - I busted the wood I had. I finally took the oil pan off, the piston rod caps and then I pulled the gear off the end of the crank. After removing the bolts holding the crank in it gave me enough room to get all but two of the piston rods to slip past the crank and drop down. The other two I had enough room to get a very large bar in there and with a two pound hammer I beat them loose just enough to drop them down. I was then able to get to all but one bolt on the clutch. The final one I got through the little plate that comes loose on the top of the bell housing. I almost rounded off one of the bolts holding the flywheel on, but with a box end wrench and a hammer I broke that loose too. ITS OFF - I can finally truck this thing to my brother and start on sanding the cab (the frame's going outside to storage with a good tarp until the cab is ready for the body shop). Then I'm taking the cab in and starting on the frame. Yaaa!

Good job now ain't it fun!!!!