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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,193 Posts1,057,258 Members48,466 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | When I was cleaning mine up I did notice the difference although I didn't do any actual thread measurement as the threads were in good shape and just needed brushing. Was there any practical reason they were threaded that way? Just another GM anomaly perhaps?
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | Denny, thanks for that heads up. I seem to be fairly skilled at either snapping bolts (even after prepping with penetrating oil) or screwing up threads. Also, nice to see "how" that comes apart for when I get to that part.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Sure, the reason was so the threads would lock up and not unscrew. The straight thread on the one part locks up when threaded onto the tapered thread of the other. Locktight hadn't been invented till 1953 and it didn't really come into general use until the late 50's or early 60's. DG
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Sure, the reason was so the threads would lock up and not unscrew. The straight thread on the one part locks up when threaded onto the tapered thread of the other. Locktight hadn't been invented till 1953 and it didn't really come into general use until the late 50's or early 60's. DG I'll be darn. Thanks, Denny.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Mr.Denny, I'm in the process of installing a sbc(327) into my'48 chevy and I want to keep the foot stomp starter. Do you know of a way I can do that and use my starter pedal and rubber boot so it will look original? Folks now days don't have a clue what it is when they see it in the floor. lol
Thanx for your help!
Mike | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | Mike - the V8s never used the foot start, there's no place on the bellhousing to mount the necessary linkage - might work out a way to fake it with a dash style push button switch under the floor
Bill | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Thanx Bill , but there has to be a way . with a welder, grinder,lots of colorful words and crossed fingers somebody did this sometime somewhere. Just have to find them. Even if there was a way to mount the switch in the floor........no linkage just wires, but how do i mount the pedal to the switch and then use the rubber boot to hide everything? I have been thinking about it but just cannot come up with the right switch or bracket. Thats why I thought I would ask you guys.
The button the dash is my last option.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Mike, don't want to sound like a stiff shirt but, if your've gone to the point of installing a SBC and I would assume other street rod mods then I can't see why retainting the foot stomp starter would interest you. If I were to choose the path that you have I'd simply be using a key start. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Mr.Denny,
I love the looks of my 'ol truck and just like the original front axle and battery box under the floor bd.(i kept) somethings need to be left alone, thats why I would like the floor stomp pedal. Im not trying to make it all street rod, just the drivetrain a little updated. Thanx for listening. Mike | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | We did this on my buddy's 53 panel-I left the stomp pedal & linkage, but I welded a bracket to hold a push button boat starter switch(all brass) just at the bottom of the firewall on the engine side. Ran the wires to the V8 starter. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Hey 64fleetside you wouldnt happen to have any pics would ya? Sounds like just what I need !!!!!! Thanx | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | nahh, no pics-it was on my buddy's rig, I just made a simple right angle bracket to hold the button using a MIG welder. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 275 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 275 | Here's what I did to keep my foot starter when I went to a 261/700r4 combo: get an International Harvester tractor foot starter at the local Tractor Supply or online by doing a search and go from there.
It's a simple electric button that looks very much like a dimmer switch. As I had previously converted the metal stomp starter pedal face to a rubber one, I just bored out the center to fit over the switch after stretching out the rubber bellows. To keep your original metal face you'll have to fabricate a cover/clamp/stem system to screw the pedal face onto the switch button. If you have questions, send me a personal message. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 388 | Thanx 56picup, I have the linkage from my 6 so I think I'll mount that with the metal face and let the linkage do the work somewhere near the tranny. Just a matter of making the bracket and getting the right start button. I'm gonna do like 64fleetside reccomended.
HAGD, Mike | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 | Have you thought of building a bracket that your foot stomp could slid into (hole at top and bottom). Drill two hole that would slide a pin though at the top and bottom of the shaft to allow you to trap a spring between the pins, the pins also keep your shaft trapped. That way you can mount the push button under it, When you push on the foot stomp to contact the push button the spring gives you the resistance and brings the pedal back to its original position. Kind of how the spring in a retractable ink pen works.
Last edited by wasat again; 01/05/2011 2:33 AM.
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