The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil Pan Gasket

Ok, I read the posts and tried a little Permatex 2 on both sides and a little in the corners and stuck it to the block. I had a little trouble with the end wanting to not stick to the surface. I don't think I overtightened but snugged and an extra 1/2 turn. Anyway the front leaks bad now.

I used the Felpro cork gasket set. But I here mention that "use a little silicone where the cork meets the rubber". Where is the rubber? A different gasket set? Any suggestions on a good technique to set the gaskets in place? Also I noticed the ends of the cork were rounded on 1 side but square on the other. Which way should they face? Gasket

i have been working on my 216 engine and have the pan pulled off. i also have the felpro cork gasket set. i found that the holes in the pan only lined up in one direction and the square end vs. round end didn't seem to have any relevance. for what it is worth , the square end went to the front of the engine on mine.

as far as keeping the gasket in place, i cleaned the lip of the oil pan to a very sanitary point and pre-assembled the gaskets to the pan starting with the two straight pieces that are at the front and back of the pan. i coated the gasket with sealer, let i tack up just a little then put it in place holding it with a small piece of wood that spanned the end of the pan from side to side, and clamped it in place with some small spring clamps. left that overnight and then using longer pieces of wood did the same with the long gaskets that run the length of the pan. i have some pictures but unfortunately they are on a camera that i can't download to my computer just yet.

not sure how well this is going to work, but at least i know the gasket won't be sliding around while i work it into place.

the corners do concern me a little bit too, but i am just going to put some sealer at those points and hope for the best.

hope that helped some...

One trick that will keep the gasket from dislodging as the pan is installed is to tie it to the pan through several bolt holes on each side with sewing thread. The thickness of the thread is irrelevant to the sealing process, and it can stay put as the pan is tightened. Adding a SMALL amount of RTV rubber sealer at the junction of the side rails and end gaskets helps prevent seep leaks there, too.
Jerry

Check this out:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/oil_pan_gasket.htm
Harold

I've always just used some dabs of grease on the gaskets, to hold them in place. I'm too cheap to buy RTV.

One of the tricks I learned was to purchase the pan gaskets for say a 216 and then also purchase a set of pan gaskets for a 1962 235. The late model 235 rail gaskets wont work on the 216 but the 1962 235 end gaskets will and theyre rubber, not cork, and lot easier to work with. I also use a THICK chassis grease for holding the gaskets in place with a little bit of Silcone on the corners where the gaskets "meet".
Other than that it just takes some of us a little frustration and a few sets of pan gaskets to get the knack for installing a pan from under the vehicle.
Good Luck! Youll get the knack if your stubborn enough.....

Thanks for all the great advise! I got back under there and could see a gap where the gasket must have turned when I snugged the pan on. I got another gasket now and will attempt this again. I bought some bolts and will cut the heads off so I can use them as aligning pins. I'll also set the long gaskets to the pan first rather than the block.

Like TJ said.... "a little frustration and a few sets of pan gaskets to get the knack for installing a pan from under the vehicle"

Just as Hotrod Lincoln said, we used light string through the holes to keep the gasket aligned to the pan. Permatex the gasket and RTV the corners. Should work fine.