The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Fuel Pump Glass Bowl 235

Hi all,
Looking to see if anyone has bought the after market fuel pump/glass bowl fuel filter from Jim Carter or any other company. http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/55_66/full.asp?page=105
I realized I do not have a filter on my engine. The ss lines I bought come straight from the fuel tank to the pump then one ss line from pump to carb. I was thinking of cutting the lines but dont have the tool to flare the ends of the lines.

Thanks! Jon

You can pick up a flaring tool set at the Home DePot for around $20 in the plumbing dept.

It's more of a sediment bowl than a true filter. If you're having difficulties that might indicate particulates in the fuel you're better off putting a filter between the carb & fuel tank. To answer your question I've not purchased a sediment bowl pump new. I've purchased several rebuilt pumps on ebay so I have a stock that will last for some time. I also have an inline filter between the tank and fuel pump.

Could I put one at the flex/rubber line that attaches to the line from the tank through the cab under the truck without having to cut ss lines?

that last question has me cross eyed tryin to picture how the cab got under the truck!

what you should do, that'd be factory correct as well as easy, is get the inline filter here - the fitting now into the carb will fit the filter and you just need a fitting to connect the filter outlet directly to the carb inlet

Bill

HA!
It was worth a shot!

OK I will get the regular filter...

Thank you!

Jon,

The AC glass bowl filter is indeed a filter (and a sediment bowl, and a water trap).

Placing any filter on the tank side of the fuel pump has the slight risk that a weak/marginal fuel pump might result in fuel starvation. Fuel pumps are slightly stronger on the "push" side than on the "suck" side. This is a fact but might not be important if you have a strong fuel pump. My last two NEW fuel pumps were not strong and gave me problems with a glass-bowl filter on the tank side of the pump.

Here are installation instructions that show how to cut and reconnect with a threaded sleeve and a sleeve tube adapter.

Hi Tim,
Good to know. Is it possible to use a AC Delco fuel pump for a 1957 Chevy V8? Watching a few on "Fee-Bay." I really do not want an after market part from China (if I can help it) on my American made Chevy.

You shouldn't have to flare those stainless lines if you cut them. You can get brass fittings with crush farrels at any quality auto parts place. I got mine from Ole's carbuerators in San Bruno. I am running an old glass type filter on the 59. The glass filter I got from Carter for my 1940 gmc leaks.

John

Hey John,
When are we going to race for pinks? Stop by the truck is done!
I will check that place out in Bruno. I contacted a couple of venders and the after market glass filter and pums are made in China.

Jon

Race for pinks? Maybe if I only use 2nd and 3rd gears! I don't think it would be a fair fight.

I have a barbed fitting on my carb and a rubber hose with a Fram G2 plastic in-line filter and another rubber hose attached to my gas line from the fuel pump. No flare. The rubber lines are only about a bit more than an inch long and secured with spring clamps. The filters are cheap to buy and easy to install. Not stock, not for the purist but they work.

Just bought a used Delco glass filter/pump on Ebay. Will also run a fuel filter before the carb.

Thanks for all the suggestions

Is it possible to get a rebuild kit for these old Delco pumps?

Just got a rebuild kit from Jim Carter. Valves on the orignal pump are different. appears to be identical valves in kit. problem now is how to get valves out of housing. manual says remove screw and they will come out. My problem no screw or any indication there ever was one.

kb3csw,
Any photos of what you have to deal with?
I will post some in a few minutes.. Glass Gasket arm
OK, now is there a break down of how to repair these things? I took the screws off but the diaphragm does not want to come out or off...

I believe to get the diaphragm off you'd have to remove the actuator lever, there'll be an "eye" on the end of the shaft behind the diaphragm that the lever arm hooks into so it can pump it up and down .... if it's not split or dried out brittle you shouldn't need to disturb it

Bill

Hi Bill,
The diaphragm is pretty dried out and brittle. The rebuild kit from Jim Carter is $45! I sent an email to Sheba at Jim Carter to see what is in the kit.

Bill,
Still trying to get the arm or actuator lever off to release the diaphragm.
Is this the pin or eye you are thinking about? Does it push out?

Jon

move the lever and watch where it pivots, there's a roll pin holding it, see pushed out here - not sure if that'll get the diaphragm free on your model, never messed with one, but if not you might be able to peel up one edge of it and get a peek

Bill

OK I will see how it goes...Let you know

Thank you!

Bill,
OK The pin just does not want to come out.
When you said: "move the lever and watch where it pivots, there's a roll pin holding it" does that mean I need to move the lever to a particular position to push the pin out?

Thank you again !!

no particular position, just to let you see the pivot point so you spot where the pin is - likely require a proper sized pin punch and some judicious hammering .... but unless you have another diaphragm in hand ....

Bill

Okay,
Thank you ...why do I get myself into these underdog jobs??
Must have a project always going...

Thanks Bill,,,

Jon

Jon answered your note. To remove diaphram from lever insert screwdriver from outside underneath lever to hold it still. Then push down on center of diaphram while slightly pushing it towards opposite side from lever that should unhook it from lever.

Cool Thank you,
I am trying to see this in my mind. So, the lever or pump arm needs to be in a particular location or does it matter?
If you have any photos that would be of great help for me...

Thank you,,

Jon

holding the pump upright in your left hand with lever ponting towards the right insert srewdriver underneath the lever and make sure it is holding the internal piece of the lever up or it's normal stationary position. find a way to brace it in position. (in the crook of your elbow or have your apprentice hold it whatever does the job)then pres metal center of diaphram down while pushing it slightly away from lever side it should pop loose and spring will push it out. the metal center of the diaphram assembly has a flat rod on the underside. This rod is slotted near the bottom, the interior end of the lever has a slight hook on it. By holding the lever with the screwdriver and then pushing down and slightly outward you allow the slotted end of the diaphram rod to drop below the hook in lever and slip off the end allowing easy removal. Sory I can't post pictures right now, this computer doesn't recognize my camera and the one that does keeps restarting, have to dig out old computer and hook it up.

I did finally realize both valves in my pump are likely the same just reversed for in flow and exit. still haven't figured out how to remove them.

Ok now the update and further answers. The carter kit contains new gaskets, diaphram assembly, valves,springs, diaphram shaft oil seal, filter screens. Some of these parts were not applicable to my fuel pump but may be needed for others. The carter kit does not include instructions. i finally decided since there seemed to be no other way I destroyed the valves then I could pry them out. Both the 38 manual and the 48 manual called for retaining screws but my pump had none. once I got the valves out I used a deadblow hammer and a socket slightly smaller than the valves to seat them. Make sure you have them pointed the proper direction for flow. On the bottom half my pump did not have the diaphram shaft oil seal or retention spring but I used one in the kit and the seal in kit fit fine. then you replace diaphram spring which was not in the kit reused old one. When you reinstall diapram and shaft assembly you have to hold the internal lever up insert shaft thru oilseal and push diaphram shaft down and over lever hook. then you can put your halves back together be sure you have the inlet and outlet properly oriented you can put them together exactly backwards (yes I did).then put your new cork gasket in and your ready to reinstall glassbowl and remount pump to engine.

KB,
Thank you for all the info.
I will get to that job soon,

Jon