The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Accelerator linkage

I can not get my accelerator linkage to work.
I have hooked everything up according to the manual but the pedal still sticks.
Does the picture look right?

There should be a spring from the hole in the rod, down to a retainer on the edge of the pan.

What engine do you have? and what year?
If it is a stovebolt 216 or 235 you have the linkage hooked up wrong. The linkage that has the small tab with the hole welded to it is supposed to connect vertically from the carburetor linkage to the bell crank which is mounted on and pivots on the block. The other linkage attaches to the inner side of the bell crank (the 90 degree bend end)and the other end connects to the accelerator pedal.There should be a light spring that attaches from a tab on the edge of the oil pan up to the small tab on the linkage to pull the outer linkage down (closed throttle).

H Will,
Thank you for the help. I have a 1957 Chevy 3100 with a stock 235. With a stock carb and linkage. I will post more detailed photos I hooked everything up but still not working. I push the pedal down but doesn't return. I am following manual. Thank you the spring doesn't seem to be right either

Heres a pic of the spring off my truck

pic 2

I bought the spring at a auto parts store
Good luck

Some more photos of the linkage... CARB bracket Throttle Cable Spring
Do you think the spring is the issue? When I look at how the linkage was before the restoration, this was where the spring was...the bottom of the spring was wrapped around the bottom of the brass fitting.

I'd say the original tab was lost off the pan bolt, which means the spring isn't quite as strong as it was originally, and likely the spring needs to pull straighter down .... fab up a piece to put under the nearest pan bolt forward of the oil fitting, a small angle bracket from a hardware store even

also make sure the pedal rod isn't binding at the floor hole

Bill

Hi Bill,
Yes I was looking at the movement of the rod coming from the back of the pedal to the bracket and it seems to be fine. With everything new, the floor mat does stick up from the firewall a bit.
OK, I thought the spring was looking a bit strange at the bottom. I will go get the "L" shaped angle bracket...
and the bracket should screw into one of the oil pan bolts??

Thank you Bill!!
One week to get this truck ready for its first show!!

Jon

that's where I've seen them setup, and it's real easy when the pan is off to misplace that tab, at least until it's back together, then it's easier to just hook the spring anyplace handy - I'd expect that to be shown in one or another of the assembly manual drawings

get'er done, you're sure to take a prize

Bill

Bill,
Does the set up at the carb look right? With the throttle cable going through the little hole of the rod coming up from the bracket at the engine? with the little screw into the brass?

Jon

looks about right there, seems the cable housing might be sticking past the clamp a bit much, but might be fine, just make sure when the knob is all the way in that there's free full travel of the linkage when the pedal is used so it doesn't run up against the cable housing - also might be good to have a small washer on the rod there between the cable and the carb arm to prevent it sliding in/out too much ... and yes, that brass piece is the proper adjustable stop

Bill

Up to '54, on Advance-Design trucks, the vertical throttle-rod's return spring ran from the tab on the rod to this bracket which ws attached to an oil pan screw/bolt (as described by squeeze).

From looking at the photos of the carburetor, it appears that the manual "hand operated throttle cable" might be causing the binding. Temporarily disconnect the throttle cable at the carburetor and operate the throttle using the accelerator pedal and it's linkage. If it operates smoothly without binding, and returns to it's spring loaded position then you have a problem with the HAND CABLE throttle binding the system.

Hi tclederman,
Thank you for the link to Jim Carter. Did not think you could buy a new tab!!!

I put a large spring in place of the original on the carb and it seems to work pretty well. Will post a photo soon.

Thank you all

Jon