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#674822 09/01/2010 11:40 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
I am looking for some help with my starter which suddenly stopped working. For some background, 6volt starter on rebuilt 57 235, 12volt electronic ignition, newer cables and all new wiring, new battery, new starter switch.

The last couple weeks it sounded like the the starter would take a second or two before it engaged and sounded different and was laboring a little. Then nothing when using the foot start. No sounds when cranking. That is when I replaced the 10 year old battery thinking it was the problem. Still nothing.That's when I replaced the starter switch. Still nothing when cranking. Do you think the starter is gone and needs rebuilding? I looked in the manual but nothing in there.

Got any ideas?


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
Blue 50 #674855 09/02/2010 1:48 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
If you used the '57 flywheel with the 6V starter there is your problem. The teeth won't mesh.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Blue 50 #674864 09/02/2010 2:11 AM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 192
R
RAK Offline
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 192
My starter went bad on my '58. When I removed it saw that the previous owner toyed with the teeth too make it compatible,but it went bad anyway.I took it to NAPA and got a new one which has been perfect with my 235 engine,cost around $100....Hope this is of some help?

Cletis #674867 09/02/2010 2:14 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 188
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
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Posts: 188
The linkage may not be pushing the switch button far enough to make electrical contact. I had trouble with mine that way.

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 89
4
Wrench Fetcher
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4 Offline
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 89
Return spring? Or lack of lube on shaft?


theres a tool for every job,and that tool is a hammer. it's easy to give advice if it's not your pocket book at stake. A well thought out plan,Is nothing. Untill exacuted twice.
49 floyd #674939 09/02/2010 11:58 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 322
49 floyd,
What return spring? On the armature? How do you lube the shaft?

(flywheel is '50, all linkage is working fine)

I have had the truck for 15 yrs and never had a problem with the starter. Is it possible to damage one by engaging it too long? I recently had it die on me in town and it would not start and I cranked it for quite a while until I found out the distributor cap was cracked.


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
Blue 50 #674945 09/02/2010 12:42 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,742
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,742
Yes, a long cranking session can damage a starter, particularly a 6V model running on 12 volts. the "official" word is 30 seconds of cranking, followed by a 20-minute cool down period. Shorten the crank time, and lengthen the cooldown for one running at twice its design voltage. Starters run at nearly dead-short resistance, and the cranking current can be tremendous. As the speed slows, the back-EMF or counter-voltage drops, allowing the starter to draw more current. Don't ever crank an engine until it won't turn any more- - - -it ruins batteries and starters.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Blue 50 #674950 09/02/2010 1:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
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Shop Shark
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Originally Posted by Blue 50
What return spring?

Return spring pic

From Mr Denny Graham's web site

DADS50 #675066 09/02/2010 10:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 322
Thanks for the picture Dads50, that's what I thought he was talking about. It is in good shape.

Hotrod Lincoln it looks like I cranked a little too long and burned it up. It was about 100 degrees outside when this happened.

I stopped by the ol boy in town that rebuilds these and that was his opinion too. Now I am trying to get that bottom bolt off so I can run it over to him for a rebuild. It has been a bugger to get off. Got it soaking with some PB Blaster.


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
Blue 50 #675098 09/03/2010 12:46 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
Been soaking the bottom bolt with PB Blaster for 4-5 hours and that baby won't budge...doesn't help that ya can't get a socket on there only an open end wrench. Will a hand held propane Benzo put out enough heat to speed it along?


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
Blue 50 #675136 09/03/2010 3:13 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Whatever you do, you don't want to damage the housing. Maybe you should consider grinding the head off.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Blue 50 #675435 09/04/2010 2:47 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 57
N
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
N Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 57
Would love to know what you find. I'm having the same problem, but I have replaced the starter with a used one and still nothing. See my post: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=675433#Post675433 for a description of my troubles, please.
Thanks,
Nick


Nick
1957 3100 Army Base Runner
Cenosillicaphobia
Blue 50 #675471 09/04/2010 4:43 AM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 38
J
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 38
A common problem is worn busings causing the rotor to drag on the stator. It is possible to change the bushings yourself with the correct puller. Most shops can do this. I have developed a real mistrust for rebuilt stuff. This typically comes with grey hair.

Blue 50 #675573 09/04/2010 9:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,742
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
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Posts: 29,742
Try a good dose of heat, followed by a shot of PB Blaster or Kroil, if any is available. Just don't set the truck on fire! Also, try tightening the bolt, then loosening it. Once the thread moves a little either way, it can usually be worked out. Use a good-quality open end wrench like a Snap-On, to keep from rounding off the nut.
Jerry



"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
Well I finally got it. Soaked with PB Blaster since Thursday and found a cheapo set of crowfoot heads today. A little cheater bar on the ratchet and came right off.

Get it over to the rebuilder on Tuesday morning and pick it up later that day.


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
Blue 50 #675630 09/05/2010 2:22 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 57
N
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
N Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 57
The best thing to do is hot wire the starter and see if it spins. I should have done this before I bought one from the salvage yard. My old one works fine. The six gauge wire that runs from the battery to the starter was very corroded. I cut the end and reconnected it at the battery side and what do you know a working truck.


Nick
1957 3100 Army Base Runner
Cenosillicaphobia

Moderated by  Gdads51 

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