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#659533 07/03/2010 10:06 PM
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New Guy
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I've read that since SS is stronger than regular steel, you only have to single flare it. Is it true? I'm about to run SS lines on my truck and want to know before i drive in.
Thanks


"If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem."
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No, not true.
All brakes lines are best done with a 45* double flare (assuming you use 45* fittings.)
The double flare is to reduce the likelyhood of a split or crack in the flare both first thing and over time.

Some confusion may be in that 37* flared fittings don't typically use a double flare but they do use a special sleeve and nut. However it is not so common to use 37* AN or JIC fittings for brake lines.

I've made plenty of stainless steel lines and double flared them.

For an easier to flare but still as good possibly better than stainless try some Copper-Nickel brake line .

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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'Bolter
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Cunifer has been popular in Europe for many years. It is imported by this company. http://www.cunifer.com/ I the video about their flaring tool is interesting.

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Is there a certain technique to flare a SS line? Someone told me about annealing the line to make it easier to flare?


"If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem."
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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....... just my thoughts here: I did my own brake lines and double flared them using a "hand" flare set. You need to practice making a few flares to get the hang of it.

Well, I think I did a good job.... BUT recently a friend in the car club came by and bent my tranny lines and my fuel lines using HIS flare set which is the hand held hydralic set. Well, it is a LOT easier, I mean a LOT. Plus, it makes some really nice flares and with the kit he makes all kinds like the bubbles on the end of lines getting rubber hoses ect. The problem is today a set like that cost around $200 or better.
My opinion/advice is to see if you have a friend who has one or if you have the coins and would use it a lot then buy one. It is sooooo much better. OR maybe some place can loan/rent it out for a day??
just my .02.


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It takes a really good flaring tool to to flare SS line. I've tried several even a good big name traditional style flare tool. While many of them will work for a few don't expect it to work for more than a truck's worth if lucky.

If the stainless line you buy is any good it is already annealed, and I can't see any benefit to trying to anneal it before flaring. If you do try it's not so simple as annealing hard copper water pipe, you'll need to let it cool slowly I expect, better read up on it before trying..

The type of tool sold by fedhill is what I use and it really is nice, does a terrific job fast and easy.
Supposedly the hydraulic units are also very nice.

I've bought some stuff from fedhill, and while they are nice folks and have good stuff they are proud of it. I've found better prices elsewhere now that I know what to look for. Check the link I provided above, I think I offer much more reasonable prices on cunifer line.

Having used stainless and cunifer (copper nickel) line for different trucks I can say without a doubt I'll never go back to stainless, the cunifer really is that much nicer to work with.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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Shop Shark
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Wow Grigg! It looks like that stuff is the ticket for my future projects. I heard it here first so I'll definitely be contacting you next time around. Thanks for sharing and for taking the initiative to import the tubing.

BTW, that flaring tool is awesome!


Mike
------
1958 Chevy 3200 Fleetside
1958 GMC 100 Wideside
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Originally Posted by Grigg
Supposedly the hydraulic units are also very nice.
Yes, they are wave grin
I will say this about the hydraulic tool, though, it is rather pricey, about $350+ for the set shown in the video, depending on who you source it from. Not really worth the cost unless you're doing brake work for a living.


Bill Burmeister

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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