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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | Since day 1 when I picked up my truck the engine would leak oil from the front and from the back of the block. Could not trouble shoot it until this year when I was able to get what appeared to be 50 years of splatter off of it. It is a 1952, well it appeared to be from the oil pan. Replaced the gasket the other day and ran it for 15min and turned it off. No visible oil on the ground. Good sign, so I was looking around the engine and now the valve cover appears to be leaking on the driver side. This is a brand new gasket. Then I was having trouble getting it to start and not thinking had the key off, but the gas was leaking from the carb. might just be flooding, but the fact that I cannot give it a burst of gas and get a response bothers me too and probably needs to be rebuilt. I am more frustrated than anything, the engine is supposed to have very few miles on it, but I really don't want to do a full rebuild on it that was what I hoped to avoid. If I ended up going that route it was time to swap out the motor for something slightly larger. Thoughts?
Last edited by Jackyl; 06/28/2010 6:08 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 126 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 126 | Those problems don't mean it needs a rebuild. Oil leaks could be bad gaskets, look what happened when you replaced the oil pan gasket. Sometimes vavlve covers can get twisted a little if they are tightened up too much, pull it off and see if its still flat maybe. Try a little sealer on the gasket. If your carb is crapping out fuel, then it is definitely not right (unless it just was flooded). Thats probably why its not running well. I would definitely rebuild or replace your carb before doing the engine.
If you really think the engine is worn out, do a compression test on it. If its worn, it'll show in the results. But from what you said, I suspect its a couple of much less complicated and expensive components and maybe adjustments giving you trouble, that defintiely the place to start.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | DaViking is right on, any sealer on that valve cover gasket. All of my 216's leak oil from somewhere. It is how I can tell it has any  . I use indian head shellac on the head side of the valve cover gasket only to create a wall to stop the oil, that way I can still take the cover off without having to replace anything. Gas coming out of the carb could be a poorly adjusted float, it doesn't take much to mess that up. Don't give up on your 216. Remember these powered numerous army trucks across the Deserts of africa and across europe , they are workhorse engines. They just take some getting used to and oil seepage is one of those things. Swapping the motor is expensive, and unless you are craving excess speed or power I would stick with the 216. I have 3 running 216's, one early 235(bored out 216 basically) and they are all dependable engines. My 1952 216 engine in my 1949 3/4 ton has carried me to yellowstone and back from kansas, and it did great. I am running it all stock with a 1948 carter w-1 carb. Hard starting happens, especially in the summer months when the carbs percolate(boil off) the fuel inside of them, then you are cranking the engine forever to re-prime the carb. Not much can avoid that. I did put about a 2' long spring around my fuel line. I picked it up in West yellowstone. it helps a bit with the hard starts when it has been sitting hot for awhile. Sorry to ramble, You will figure it out. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | Spoke to soon on the leaking from below, there was a 3in by 3in puddle out there tonight. At least it wasn't flowing as fast as it was pumping like last time. I just needed to know I was not crazy spending the time on this. I have to say the engine runs quieter than my toyota 4 banger in my daily truck. Especially since I changed out the oil. When I pulled the pan there was nothing in it like sludge or any remnants, but I still threw in a quart of Marvel. Speed is my other project, this one is just about getting there.
Thanks for the input at least I don't feel so bad now. | | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 89 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 89 | well do a little love on it .I have ran a 216 for a long time they need attention now and then.these are not the new motors of today. they have points, fisrt generation oil seals,carbs that are,more intuitive than your wife.so it is a love or a battle. do'nt give up.you'll win in the the end. 216's are sweet when treated well.
theres a tool for every job,and that tool is a hammer. it's easy to give advice if it's not your pocket book at stake. A well thought out plan,Is nothing. Untill exacuted twice.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | +1 to 49floyd.
If you have a 1/2 ton, the rear ring and pinion swap is very popular and gives you decent speed. Just remember the older brakes have to slow you down.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 | My 216 is sitting in the barn. It was one of those fill up the oil check the gas deals. I am doing the 235 swap. Get a catalogue from Patricks, it details it and other running gear options, trans. and rearend. link, call and order catalogue for free. www.patricksantiquecars.com/ Hank | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 54 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 54 | You might check the carb float to make sure it doesn't have any fuel in it from a small leak. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | The truck was actually a 1Ton that I chopped 21in out of replaced the rear with a 3.42 El Camino rear and put a 1/2 ton front axle on it with disc brakes. I love the way the truck looks now, could be a tad lower, but overall I like it. Just the leaks drive me nuts. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | I have gotten use to some leaks now, Just use the rated sealer on any gasketed surface and thread sealant on and pipe thread and you sould do well. Like mentioned before, check your carb float, and you should do well. You rear main seal might need replaced if the oil pan stays wet, and the metal crush washer on the oil pan drain plug might also need replaced. Those are the worst offenders I can think of, that and the valve cover gasket. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 215 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 215 | Hi, not to sound like a know it all or anyhting, but on the oil pan and valve cover, did you check the bolt holes ? Sometimes over the years the holes get pulled in from overtightening, so no matter how tight you get them the gasket isn't being crushed at all. Sometimes they need to be hammered flat again, good luck!
Last edited by andy46; 06/30/2010 3:28 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | Ok so I went under the truck tonight to view what was going on. My buddy and I put the the oil pan on so figured I might spot the issue before he gets there. Well wouldn't you know it, the drain plug was not tightened down. Hope that was it on that side, the valve cover we straightened out the one side looked a little bent and put the gasket maker on and ran it for 20min nothing leaked or even came out. Now back to the axle to find out what is starting to leak out of that. One right after the other. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | Between my old truck and my little hot rod, if they aren't leanking it's coz they're empty. My old 270 is leaking oil from a couple small points I cant seem to track down, I did chase down a couple leaks here & there, but the rear end was the one that made me nuts. I ended up (on the 3rd try) using this sealant called "The Right Stuff" and it hasn't even seeped a drop since. Worth a look for things that dont need to come off with any regularity, but even so it cures soft so it's flexible and not too difficult to take apart. 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | First I wouldn't blame the old 216, chasing down leaks is just part of this old car game, would be same issue with a big block.
Had several leaks from my old 53 motor mainly from the rocker and side cover. Now all is redone and with Permatex #2 which I believe works much better than silicone seal. Also had what I thought was a rear main leak on a 261, turns out oil was leaking around the bolts up front on the timing gear cover and running to the back along the pan lip, a little thread sealer cured that.
And another huge improvement can be made on these motors by going to a PCV valve set up vs the old draft tube. | | |
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