The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop '34 chevy 1/2 t --shims for castor?

Can i put shims under the spring to axle bolts to change castor? My steering has no desire to pull straight ahead--just goes in whatever direction you steer. Not too bad but i constantly have to correct and recorrect. I am thinking a bit of toe in adjustment might be okay too. I have never delved into this part of a vehicle but would like to if needed.

You'll want about 1/8" toe in. You also might recheck the steering box and tie rods for backlash as well, as both can cause the problem you're having. If you do want to add a bit of positive caster, the shims are available from Napa. They have a wedge shape, and you may need to trim them to size for width to match you're sping seats. Install them from the rear of the axle for positive caster.

You should take it to a shop and have them give You the camber,caster, and toe in readings then go from there, in the shop manual they give the spec's if you don't have one I could list them for you.It could turn out to some thing like Longbox55 said.

Pete

Okay thanks for that info. Looks like i am on the right track as far as the adjustments. Taking it in again would be a good way to go just to get the numbers. I had it in before just after i got it on the road but i think the shop just checked it for being ballpark and not really trying to dial me in. I have the box tightened up pretty well now so--on to the toe in and castor.

Davy my '36 Chevy pickup was a bear to steer until I did the following:

1. Machined the sector housing for an oil seal and ran gear oil in the steering box. That eliminated the problem of grease wiping off the gears and the gear contact surfaces running dry.

2. Replaced the ancient ball and socket tie rod ends on the drag link with modern Moog ES29R & L tie rod ends.

3. Fabricated a drag link and used the same modern tie rod ends. The modern tie rod ends have the same taper as the ball and socket fossils and so are a direct bolt in on the pitman arm and steering arms.

Nothing wrong with the original style tie rods, other than potential issues with wheel clearance with aftermarket wheels. Lubricate them and adjust them properly, and they'll be just fine. You may be suprized to find that tie rod technology really hasn't changed much, they're still a ball and socket. The real difference is how the housing is made and assembled. Rather than having the cups/preload spring/plug that goes in from the side, everything goes in from the top, with a spun in place sheetmetal cap. But the mechanics are the same.

The shims are available from NAPA, around $5 if I remember right.

Something to watch for is locating the center pin of the leaf springs back in the center hole of the axle. If the center pin head is short, it might not hit the axle once the shim is in place. Mine was real close so I moved the shim backwards so the center bolt fit in the axle a little bit more. It all works fine, just beware when its going together.

If you have lowered the truck, front or rear, or raised it for that matter, the factory caster dimension won't work. Just add one or two degrees more then you have now. If you get to much, you will be lifing the front end of the truck when you turn. When its right, the weight of the truck will bring it back to center.

Joe

Well you guys gave me alot of good ideas--. I have since moved the toe in --measured with a stick with pointers on it to 1/8" in. Really helped out a great deal and the truck is much nicer to drive and at higher speeds. Turns out it was toed out a bit so you can imagine the gain in stability. I am planning on putting a half degree of castor shims in it too and will let you know how it goes.