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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 21
R
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 21
Is there a secret to installing the door gaskets? Made one attempt and I am sure it is not a one man operation.

Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 149
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 149
By door gaskets do you mean weatherstripping?

If so, the secret is Shoe Goo.

Works perfect.


"Effective leadership is putting first things first. Effective management is discipline, carrying it out."

---Casey---

http://s676.photobucket.com/albums/vv127/davisears/?albumview=slideshow
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 21
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New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 21
This is the gasket that is supposed to slide into the channel around the door. Passenger side done after a few hours. Gave up on the drivers side.

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 22
H
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 22
Lubricate the channel and the weatherstrip with WD40 and slide it through the channel from where it starts. Pliers help but it should go in fairly easily.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270

The channels were pinched in several places at the factory after the windlace was installed into the channels.

There have been posts on installing the door/cab windlace; but, one thing that helps in making sure the channels are clear (and the pinches have been adequately widened) is to run a small length of windlace through the channels to make sure the windlace is able to freely be move through the channels.

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
Any suggestions on opening up the pinched areas? I am sure there are dozens of ways to do it but my limited attempts so far have either started crushing the opposite side or severely stressed the attachments of the track. I think I have a few more crushed areas than the factory put in. I have left this area alone for now hoping for inspiration for some way of opening the crushed areas that is easier on the track then what I have tried so far.

Chuck

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,644
When you say "crushed" what exactly does that mean? Are there large areas that have been flattened or are you referring to the pinches that are put in at the factory whiuch are relatively small. The location of the factory pinches are shown in the Assembly Manual.

Here again, a picture would help clarify your problem and increase your chances of getting an answer that will help you.


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

Save the VINTAGE DOOR ART! Please contribute photos.
Door Art Collection
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,644
P
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,644
Chuck,If You have a torch take an old flat tip screwdriver at least 3/8s wide and bend it about 1/2 inch from the tip at 90 degrees ,than to open up the track put the newly made pry bar into the track and gently rock the handle up and down at the same time You're moving it thru the pinched area ,than you will not pinch the other side and the pressure will be on the track it self ,some times You can find a small pry bar at a tool place but it's easyer just to make one.

Good luck,Pete

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
Thanks for the help Woody and Pete. This isn't a big deal but I hoped someone had identified a tool to easily do this. I flattened the end of some round stock to match the profile of the good track and tapped it along the damaged areas with a hammer. It worked. I got Pete's response after that. I think what he described with the old screwdriver would be easier on me and the track.

Chuck

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 21
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New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 21
Thanks for all the tips. Rubber installed but no skin left oh my knuckles.


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