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| | | Forums66 Topics128,129 Posts1,056,700 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 21 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 21 | Is there a secret to installing the door gaskets? Made one attempt and I am sure it is not a one man operation. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 149 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 149 | By door gaskets do you mean weatherstripping?
If so, the secret is Shoe Goo.
Works perfect. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 21 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 21 | This is the gasket that is supposed to slide into the channel around the door. Passenger side done after a few hours. Gave up on the drivers side. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 22 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 22 | Lubricate the channel and the weatherstrip with WD40 and slide it through the channel from where it starts. Pliers help but it should go in fairly easily. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | The channels were pinched in several places at the factory after the windlace was installed into the channels.
There have been posts on installing the door/cab windlace; but, one thing that helps in making sure the channels are clear (and the pinches have been adequately widened) is to run a small length of windlace through the channels to make sure the windlace is able to freely be move through the channels.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | Any suggestions on opening up the pinched areas? I am sure there are dozens of ways to do it but my limited attempts so far have either started crushing the opposite side or severely stressed the attachments of the track. I think I have a few more crushed areas than the factory put in. I have left this area alone for now hoping for inspiration for some way of opening the crushed areas that is easier on the track then what I have tried so far.
Chuck | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | When you say "crushed" what exactly does that mean? Are there large areas that have been flattened or are you referring to the pinches that are put in at the factory whiuch are relatively small. The location of the factory pinches are shown in the Assembly Manual.
Here again, a picture would help clarify your problem and increase your chances of getting an answer that will help you. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 | Chuck,If You have a torch take an old flat tip screwdriver at least 3/8s wide and bend it about 1/2 inch from the tip at 90 degrees ,than to open up the track put the newly made pry bar into the track and gently rock the handle up and down at the same time You're moving it thru the pinched area ,than you will not pinch the other side and the pressure will be on the track it self ,some times You can find a small pry bar at a tool place but it's easyer just to make one.
Good luck,Pete | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | Thanks for the help Woody and Pete. This isn't a big deal but I hoped someone had identified a tool to easily do this. I flattened the end of some round stock to match the profile of the good track and tapped it along the damaged areas with a hammer. It worked. I got Pete's response after that. I think what he described with the old screwdriver would be easier on me and the track.
Chuck | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 21 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 21 | Thanks for all the tips. Rubber installed but no skin left oh my knuckles. | | |
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