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#65361 09/06/2006 3:18 PM | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 42 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 42 | Trying to fix the mess my ex mechanic made installing a rebuilt 56 235 in my 53 3100. Only 2 bolts in the front mount ( one is 1/2 way out the other one almost punched the timing chain cover), oil leaks, gas leaks, water leaks. I just hope the oil pump is in tight & right ( oil pressure is 38 lbs ) The truck only has 4 or 5 100 yard drives & also has been run 15 or 20 times for 1 to 10 minutes. The front end leaks oil from the lower two timing chain bolt holes the pan does not leak. The 235 is rebuilt & the lower bolts taped for out side hex head bolts. What's odd is a heavy drilled plate under them. If I back off both & use a lot of silicon & tighten them "VERY TIGHT" should that stop the leak and could that plate bend the cover ? Will fixing this leak cause new ones at some other weak spots ? Thank, Kelly 53 3100 http://www.cravy.com/53-3100/LadyAfterRats.jpg | | |
#65362 09/06/2006 3:56 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | etx44,
If my memory is still intact, I think the plate on the bottom of the cover was the factory piece that was spot welded there to give some "tooth" to the threaded bolts that come from inside the crankcase.
If someone drilled and tapped the cover for outside access on those two bottom bolts, that piece should have been drilled for "clearance" diameter on the bolt size, while the adapter would have been drilled and tapped for the proper thread.
If this wasn't done properly, it would certainly leak in that area. Could your ex-mechanic has misunderstood how these bolts were assembled.
Stuart | | |
#65363 09/06/2006 4:40 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Stuart has it right. In fact having the two bottom bolt holes drilled and tapped is a godsend as it saves you pulling the pan to access the bottom two bolts. Pulling the pan, especially if the gasket is good and holding might only create more problems.
On these engines there is also a oil slinger which mounts on the crankshaft inside the timing cover. This "slings" oil away from the seal where the crankshaft pulley comes through.
When I did mine I replaced all the slot-head screws which hold the cover in place with small hex-head bolts. Makes it easier to get to them and there is no slipping of the screwdriver.
Bill | | |
#65364 09/06/2006 6:05 PM | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 42 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 42 | Ok I get it the plate can not leak because it is welded on. If I back off the 1/2 inch hex head bolts & silicon & tighten them that may stop the leak. The other bolts have been changed to 7/16, and all 12 were loose. The mechanic offered to redo his work & I declined. Now what I need is a magic wrench from Sears to get to those two bolts the left one any way. What wrench works best ? Thank, Kelly 53 3100 http://www.cravy.com/53-3100/LadyAfterRats.jpg | | |
#65365 09/06/2006 6:35 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | ext44,
If you think you can trust your mechanic to fix it properly on the second go around, and he will do it 'gratis', which he should, I would take that option.
I think this might be a ongoing leak unless the cover is removed, checked and reinstalled properly.
Leaks are very frustrating, and messy! The mechanic has offered, put the ball in his court!
Stuart | | |
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