The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop engine removal

i know this sounds like a rookey question but i have never worked on one of these old trucks befor,i need to replace the motor. :confused: :confused: what is the best way t remove the motor from a 51 1/2 ton truck? can i leave the tranny in or does it all have to come out as a unit

pushrod,

I feel like I'm following you around! You can leave the transmission in the truck when you pull the engine. It actually makes it easier as the hunk that needs to be pulled out is shorter.

If you are going to rent a 'cherry picker' from your local rental yard, try and get the engine balancer thingy with it...much easier to balance the lash up with one of these.

Maybe someone will pop in and tell you the "very best" lift points for your chain. Don't drop it!!

Stuart

Well, the transmission is usually bolted up with only 4 bolts. You can drop that part. I don't know the trick for seperating the torque tube. The engine is bolted in the rear from the bellhousing to the cross member. You should be able to get it out once you clear the front and two rear mounts.

Some people will advise you to take the front sheet metal off, as it makes the engine removal eazier, but it is an extra step, and prolly could be done w/out.

thanks for the info guy's i have a cherry picker, and plan on removing the whole dog house it needs taken apart and sanded and primed anyway in fact the whole truck is comeing apart this winter

Push rod, Ijust removed an engine/transmission assy. from a 1941 1/2t. I found it easier to remove the entire front body section (from the cab forward) but I entend to clean and paint the firewall under hood and inner fenders. (unless I can get the Dr.to go ahead and paint the whole truck)
Realy to me not having to work with my fat belly hanging over the fenders is a plus. And boy the room I have.

Wow talk about perfect timing... I am in the process of swapping a 283 out of my 65 4wd for a 350... the only concern I have at this point is how do I get to the 2 bolts out on the top side of the bellhousing?

Thanks

Pushrod:
Attach the pulling chain ends on the balancer to two cylinderhead bolts. That's the fasctory repair manual method for engine removal. If you don't have the manual shoot me an e-mail and i will look up which two cylinder head bolts to use when I get home.
JimBo

My experience is to first unbolt the trans and leave it in place. Pull the entire front clip off as a unit with your ingine lift, easy and doesn't take long. Big reason I pull the sheet metal is that now you don't have to lift that heavy motor so HIGH and your puller may not have enough stroke for that. On my old 53 when I pulled the clip I found that the radiator support, (which btw is the key piece for the ENTIRE front end) had come appart at almost all the factory spot welds. May not have discovered that with the clip in place.

Bowtie65,

I might be misunderstanding your post. It wouldn't be SOP to pull the engine and leave the bellhousing/tranny behind.

Those top bolts are difficult to access...that's one of several reasons you don't separate the two on a engine removal. Pull the bellhousing with the engine.

I do note your rig is a 4X4, does this make a difference?

Stuart

bowtie65... automatic?

yeah the 65 is a 4x4 and is a 4 speed.

thanks for the info guys