The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What is my '53 3600 rear end ratio?

I have a '53 3600 with 4 speed transmission. The rear end is marked on top "L0224" to the best that I can determine. Where can I find the info on that particular rear end? I would like to know what my ratio is now. I would like to change out the "guts" if that is possible and put in gears that will give me more speed as I have the updated brakes and will not be using the truck for heavy hauling.
John

That could be one of 2 different condes. There's an LG and an LQ, you may need to see if you can get a better look to see if the "0" is actually a G or Q. LG would be a 4.57 ratio, LQ is a 5.14. For a higher gear, you will need the 3rd member from a '68-'72 3/4 ton, usually with a 350 and automatic, with the 4.10 gear.

Longbox55 was kind enough to reply to my question about decreasing the ratio on the rear end of my ’53 3600 (3/4 ton). I have tried leaving him a PM and his email gets kicked back.
He said “That could be one of 2 different codes. There's an LG and an LQ, you may need to see if you can get a better look to see if the "0" is actually a G or Q. LG would be a 4.57 ratio, LQ is a 5.14. For a higher gear, you will need the 3rd member from a '68-'72 3/4 ton, usually with a 350 and automatic, with the 4.10 gear.” I now believe that mine is the “LG” with the 4.57:1.

I don’t understand about the “3rd member suggestion. What exactly does he mean? I am ignorant of the terminology and just don’t know what to look for. Is it a single part and would I have to rebuild my differential to install it?

I saw that Patrick’s had a 3.55:1 ring and pinion for ’40 to ’54 pickups. I called him and he said that it was for ½ tons only, not ¾ tons. He said that I should look for a complete rear end, axle and all with a 8 lug wheel pattern. He suggested one from a ’88 through ’96 Ford E350 van (like used by churches, etc.) I think that he said it would be a 3.55:1. He said that I would need new “spring perches” (what ever that is) from Brothers and it would just bolt in. I guess that it would come with rear brakes and all. What are your thought on this? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
John Hill

I found the 4:11 ratio rear end with an ad right here on the bolt. These rear ends 'center section/pumpkin' comes out as a complete unit once you have the axles pulled. Difficult part is finding one. You need to get a shop manual and study that to get a grasp on what's going on with these trucks.

The third member is the center section of your rearend, sometimes called the pumpkin that has the ring and pinion gears. It unbolts from the housing and can be interchanged with any other pumpkin of the same rearend (Eaton 3/4 and 1 ton) from about '46-'72. (you have to remove the axles first) The desirable 4.10 gearset that Bill mentions is only found in the later years.

The axle Patrick told you to look for is a Dana 60, also very common in Dodge vans with that ratio. You will need to relocate the spring perches (cutting/welding) to bolt it into your vehicle.

Steve,
Is a 4.10:1 really what I want? With the 4.57:1, it is as if I am racing the engine to go 50 mph. Would a lower ratio (3.55:1) be better?
John

Do you want to haul loads with this truck? The 216 has limited power and if you are always empty something like 3.55 is probably fine.

If you plan to haul loads you're going to find the 4.10 more workable.... If you can find one.

I bought a '48 1-ton a few years ago that had 3.42 gears and was for sale because the 216 didn't have enough power to carry a load. A little more extreme than your example but worth thinking about.

I won't haul heavy loads with this one. I have a modern Toyota Tundra for that as well as long distance trips. I plan on finding a 235 and have it rebuilt, swap out the 216 and use the truck for a driver (not heavy hauler) Maybe 500 lbs of feed at most. I just feel that I am screaming the engine at 50 mph. I would rather it take it easy at regular cruising speeds. Would a 4.10:1 work for that?
John

I put a 4.10 third member in my 1951 1 Ton and I can cruise at 60 mph. I have fairly tall 16" tires (spec'd at 652 revs per mile) and that gives me just under 2700 rpm at 60 mph. I have the original 216 in the truck. I don't haul any loads.

I think the 4.10s will be fine if you can find a set.

Would I need to purchase a rear end gear installation kit like the one part #93-512B from Classic Parts if I opt to change the 3rd member to 4.10:1? With no experience in differential work, is this a proceedure that I would want to get into or would I be better finding a shop that specializes in rear ends to do the job?
John

I don't know your level of comfort with this type of work but it doesn't require adjustments of any kind. All that is needed are the gaskets for the axles and the ones for the center section of the rearend. However, if it were me, I would not pull the axles without thinking about putting in new seals while in there.

John,
No installation kit or ring and pinion experience is necessary.
You will not be disturbing the gears themselves.
Click here.

The entire differential can be swapped and if the stuff is in good condition no installation kit or other parts are needed.

However, finding the right differential with that set of gears is not trivial. Some guys have spent years advertising and looking to find them.

This is the 3/4- and 1-ton rear and the parts listed for the 1/2-ton are not going to help.

Great info guys! I will start searching for a rear end out of one of the donor vehicles that you have mentioned.
Thanks
John

Try the search function for information on swapping out the third member of your truck, there is a lot of info available. The third member (also called the "pumpkin", "chunk" or "carrier" (because it carries the ring and pinion gears)) is called the third member because it is the third member of the drivetrain: the engine, the transmission and the ring and pinion carrier. Rearend usually refers to the complete housing and carrier.

There are quite a few junkyards around this area that have some older trucks, but a lot of them are being crushed since the price of scrap metal went up so much. If you are going this route, I'd start looking soon.

Larry

If you can find the 4.10 pumpkin, that is the way to go. It's the easiest change, strictly bolt-in. And it is a good time to do the seals on the rear bearings as well.
If you can't, while you're looking for that pumpkin, keep a tape measure with you to check the widths of the DANA 60's that you stumble on. Count their ratio and compare the width to your Eaton rear. If you can get a DANA at a reasonable price with a ratio between 3.55 an 4.10, you should get it (you may be looking for that pumpkin for a long while).
To install the new rear axle you will have to make the spring perches match the ones on your current axle and maybe get a u-joint that will go from the new rear to the old drive shaft (they exist, sort of like an adapter). Reconnect your brake line and you are done. Easy cruising.

Can anyone tell me what to look for that will identify a DANA 60? I see lots of 8 lug rear ends on Craig's list. They say they are out of a certain year such and such. I haven't seen anything that says DANA. They are refered to as 12 bolt, 10 bolt etc. I would love to know specific vehicles and years that would work.
Oldsub mentioned that the 3rd member that I wanted was in both the 3/4 ton and 1 ton. If that is the case, it would expand my search.
Thanks again for all the good info.
John

I doubt the 4.11 Eaton was ever factory installed in a 1-ton though I suppose its possible. The axle and differential design was used for many years in both 3/4- and 1-ton trucks ending in 1972.

More important than getting a specific Dana axle would be finding an axle the right width and with the gears you want. Since you are dealing with a 3/4-ton a Dana 60 is probably strong enough but you'll also see Dana 70HD and 80 and GM 14-bolt axles and maybe things like the Ford Sterling.

The Dana has been used under pretty much everyone's truck at some point in time and is likely to be the easiest to find. Because these things are heavy you don't want a bigger one than you really need. Because not everything its been used under is 8-lug you'll want to confirm that too before buying.