The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Noob Clutch Removal Questions

I got the trans out. (see giant box-O-rocks thread). so now while we're at it, I should check the clutch. I got the throw out bearing and fork out tonight.

Now, to get the clutch pressure plate off, as the manual says only one turn per bolt all around, I'll need to turn the engine.

so I removed the plugs, thinking easier turning, but not really.

Is it correct to have a helper bump the starter to turn the engine so I can get to all the bolts?

Or is there a proper hand crank procedure?

Plugs are out so it wont surprise start.

The best way is to take a large screw driver or pry bar with you under the truck and turn the flywheel a little at a time by putting it between the bell housing and the teeth on the flywheel this way you can adjust the bolts were you want them and if you get a bolt thats tight you can use it to hold on to the flywheel so you can loosen it.

Pete

thanks, that sounds like a good idea.

You can take out 2 bolts per turn. If you might use the same clutch over, you should loosen the bolts a little at a time, turning it around about 3 times. Otherwise you can warp the pressure plate. Same way going back.

A little tip, if you have an "alignment" tool, put it in to keep the clutch disc from falling out while your removing the pressure plate bolts.

OK, got clutch out.

Got a complete clutch kit from auto parts store that includes a new Pilot bearing.

That looks challenging to take out. My manual shows a special puller tool and driver to replace.

How important is replacing that part?

The new clutch kit came with a pilot tool that exactly nicely fits the new pilot bearing.

So, for reference, I tried the tool in the existing bearing and it is a little wiggly.
Not too much, but not as correct of a fit as the new one.

Should I take that one out? If so, how?
Or just let it go, close enough.

replacement is close enough, and easy if you let hydraulics do your work - pump some grease in the hole and drive the tool in with a sharp tap ... if that tool isn't long enough to go over half way in, find a piece of dowl the same diamater .... and if grease is too messy use wet toilet paper, the bushing will come right out

Bill

Now is the time to replace the pilot bushing. That will be one of the little tasks that will comeback to haunt you if you don't, I speak from experience. I tried the wet toilet paper, didn't work, may have been the dowel? The alignment tool might work with grease. You just fill the pilot hole with grease, may require 2-3 fills but it does work! I had an old imput shaft, to drive into the bushing hole. And the grease didn't "splatter". My have to hit it half dozen times or more.

I tried the grease and dowel, and it just leaked grease all over. Then I tried adding some TP to the grease mess and it just got pounded in there, too.

Today, I got THIS at the auto parts store for 15 bucks and it came right out!

OK, not right out.

The first attempt resulted in the remover bottoming and hitting the crank before completely sealing, so again, grease leaked out.

So I took it out and cut off about 3/4" of the pointy end and screwed it back in there to seal it up good.

Then, pumped the grease-gun, and it just came out all nice and easy!

Tomorrow, re-install new clutch parts.

Never saw one of those, how much cost em' Scot???
I'm surprised that the hand greas gun had enough pressure to pop it out.
DG

Cost just 15 bucks at carquest. And the hand grease pump had easily enough pressure, once it was sealed up with the threaded insert!