The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rear main on '57 235

I've gone so far in looking for a clutch chatter problem that I might as well swap out the 216 for this 235 I have. It's from a 1957 Bel Air. I'll keep my 216 clutch setup and swap over to 12v. I was getting ready to solve the oil leak problem on the 216 before installing the new clutch when I remembered I just bought this 235 a couple months ago. I trust the guy I bought it from; he said it runs fine. Question: Removing and replacng the rear main on the '57 235 while on the engine stand; do I follow the same procedures as in the truck? That is lower the crank a notch and r&r the seals then re-torque the crank. Or is there an easier way with the engine out of the truck. I figured that I would replce the primary oil seals on the new engine; rear main, pan, timing gear, rockers, valve cover. Anything else I should do to the 235 first?

Leon, you have it easy (don't have to crawl under the rig-LOL). Just follow the tech tip and I would use the 'wick type' though.

While you have that engine so easy to get at you may want to check the valves and set them proper.

I did not know that hydraulic lifters needed adjustment.

Also, I heard that solid lifters perform better in the 235. If that is the case then can hydraulics be replaced with solid at rebuild time?

Yes, you can swap hydro's for solids and most often keep the same cam, but probably need to get new pushrods. I think solids are better- but i don't mind keeping them set properly.

I just replaced the rear main seals in a 56 235 with the neoprene seals from Napa. Nothing could have been easier. I removed the rear main cap, pulled out the rope seal, installed the new one per the instructions and re-torqued the bolts. It was not necessary to loosen anything else. This truck is a daily driver and was a major leaker. It almost got the owner kicked out of his home by his neighborhood association. It's been 2 months, dry as a bone and he doesn't have to move. Another happy ending. Fred