The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop stroked 350

to stroke a 350 to 383 what crank would I use. And how much would I bore it

400 smallblock crank, turned down to 350 journal diameter, blocke bored .030" over. These days, easier to get a new grank already made up for it than to hunt down and have the work done to a stock 400 crank. Side note, the original 400 crank is cast, not forged. Not saying that's bad, just a little fyi.

Eagle makes that stroker crank already fitted and clearanced for the 350 block. If you use a stock 400 crank, the connecting rods, harmonic balancer and flywheel also have to be changed to the 400 parts for balancing and piston/cylinder head clearance purposes. I think there are some "internally-balanced" strokers on the aftermarket.
Jerry

thanxs

My uncle and I just did this. I'll get the number from the place he got his. Great price and awesome service. Oh, remember you'll have to modify the block for rod clearace.

Their number is(877)- 354-3812 and their in Salt Lake City. Talk to Tyson. Oh, I also remember having to alter the oil pan just slightly at the front of the pan. Just things we weren't told when we begain. Figured I'd pass on the knowledge.

so that is what makes it a strocker? just the crank? dont mean to hijack the post. 561 what numbers did the motor put out?

To answer all the?'s, have them bore it .030 so the total bore will be 4.030". The stroker part comes in with the crank. the stock 350 has a stroke of 3.480" with a rod length of 5.7" and a 383 would have a 3.750" witha rod lenght of either 5.7" or 6". It is running about 450 to 475 horse, give or take. Didn't have it dynoed. I really don't like the idea of reving a fresh motor to 5000rpms of the bat. Either way Its pretty snotty. I suggest if you are gonna go for a 383 use a forged crank. They have cast ones but when you get into the higher ponies a harder more durable crank is the way to go. Might as well spend the extra cash now instead of when the cast crank fries and a rod flies through the side of the block. Budget builds are great but there is no point in doing the job twice. What kind of heads are you gonna run? (chamber and valves)

I did a 383 a couple of years back. Got the kit from Eagle. I had to have it machined for block to rod clearance AND the piston skirts for skirt to crank counter weight clearance. I also had to fish around a little for a pan that the rods would not scrape against, and I think it was Miloden that I finally landed on.

I used a stock pan. Had to warm it up a bit and pop it out on the front just a bit. It fit great after that.

that is what makes it a strocker? just the crank?

The crank is the only thing that affects the stroke length.

The crank is the only thing that changes the length of the stroke, but building a stroker is more complicated than that. I like the kit approach personally because a well designed kit will have rods and pistons with the proper length and height.

I'm currently considering building a stroker motor for my small block powered car because it seems the easiest way to both refresh the motor and get a little more power without requiring the work and engineering of updating to an LSx motor.

I haven't decided if I'll rebuild what I have or just buy a 388 crate motor. I might also just cheap-out and rebuild the stock motor stock...

I tried to piece together a kit and couldn't do it for less than a kit would be. So, I agree with OldSub, go with a kit.

i am going to run aluminum heads w/ 64cc and 190cc and i to think kits are the way to go but their is so many how do you know what is good and what is just or just over priced? and do you do a roller cam or flat?

Something to consider, just buy a GMPP creat 383, you will end up with less cost and hassle plus you have something of a warranty. You will miss all the fun though of looking for all the parts, making sure whoever does the machine work did it correctly and riding around store to store or waiting for UPS. I find that buying a create engine is much better for me, but then I'm an old guy now and don't have the "gitty up and go" as years past.

Good set of heads. As for the kit, a couple posts back I gave a number to a place out in Salt Lake. They did us real well. I mean everything, rods, crank, bearings, gaskets, cam, timing chain, lifters, oil pump and pickup, and we already had the rest. All of it was name brand, no off baranded things, just good quality parts. With the cam, that really depends on what your gonn do with it. A roller is more of a strip thing unless you go with a hydraulic roller. That would cost quite a bit with the machining to the block and the retrofit lifter kit. Thats like 500 to 800 dollar kit. A regular hydraulic cam will work just fine. You can get some pretty radical hydraulic cams and their great for street and strip. I would also go with roller rockers, less friction and they free up some extra muscle. If you do go with the boys in Salt Lake have an idea of what cam you would like to go with. They can also point you in the right direction if you give them a idea of what you want. Jegs has a huge selection of cams, so you can get a good idea there also.

I would also like to say that a crate motor would be nice too. The only problem I would have with a GM performance parts on is that GM built it and I didn't. I've lost a lot of faith in GM as of late. Their motors they put in vehicle are shotty at best. Everything uses oil and coolant. They've lost their edge. Plus, building it yourself, you have the satisfaction you did it and everything is correct.

but building a stroker is more complicated than that

No, not really. A kit is a great method for people who can't do simple math, no idea what all those parts are, and enjoy buying things they don't need.

Wow, really? Whats got your undies in a bunch? Whats not needed? A kit is a great way to put everything together all at once instead of piecing it all together. Personally, I've done it either way and the job still gets done. No sence in overcomplicating something simple. Intake, Exhaust, Compression, Ignition, and fuel are all you need. It doesn't matter the method its done.

If you noticed, the question was what makes it a stroker.
The correct, and only, answer was the one I gave: the crankshaft.
The other parts "Intake, Exhaust, Compression, Ignition, and fuel are all you need" (exception: modify or change your pistons) are not needed at all, unless you want them.

This forum has beaten the subject of 383 sbc strokers to death:http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/72/. No matter how much detailed information on the subject you want, this forum has way more.

I have a very strong opinion from personal experience on the subject of crate motors versus home assembled, from the standpoint of weeding out defective parts, but I will keep silent on the subject. By the way, my age is 65.

Altered-stroke engines are not for the novice engine builder. True, a "kit" is more likely to accomodate the guys who can't or won't go to the trouble to understand what's involved in making such a basic change from what the factory engineers chose to install.

I got introduced to stroker engines back in the early 1950's, with the flathead Fords Dad built for the local 1/4 mile dirt tracks. There were no such things as engine kits back then, so the only people who built stroker engines were the ones who could engineer them to work properly. The standard Ford V-8 stroke was 3 3/4", and the 49-53 Mercury had a 4" stroke crank. The Mercury crank could be offset-ground to a 4 1/8" stroke by using the smaller-dimension connecting rods and bearings for the 85 HP 1932-38 model engines. Beyond that point, strokers were either welded up to increase the radius, or whittled out of a solid billet of steel. I've seen a few drag-racing flatheads with a full 1" stroke increase, out to 4 3/4". Those cranks won't survive on a dirt track, they twist the center main bearing in two!
Jerry

Now that brings back old times.